"WMO 1.1a"

stopped reading there

[ - ]

Faggot.

How did you strip the cord?

He said.. "I'm thinking of doing" ..see?

(Tisk tisk ... basically all current replies are BS).

silver wire or gtfo

i see your silver wire and raise you a gold usb connector

I wanna see if silver conductivity affects polling rate, if 1000hz is more constant without skipping like at 500hz...

copper conductivity isn't that much worse but costs only a fraction so silver would be useless overkill as the propagation speed is important not conductivity, both copper and silver are very good conductors.

you need a cable with a lower inductive reactance if you're having trouble holding 1000Hz.

need a brain that doesn't generate inputs out of nowhere if he uses 1000hz.

Aren't the switches labeled?
If you know what switch is used you can look into the data sheet, which should answere your questions.

@ nvc
What's your mouse preference? I haven't found a good alternative for a light mouse that suits a relaxed claw grip. My hands are pretty small (I'm only 5'7") so the IME feels huge.

I've been using this "reflex test" to compare my performance with different mice. (WMO, MX518, IME 3.0, A4tech X710)
http://www.reflextest.net/reaction/letter.htm
I enlarge the page so the distances are closer to what I'd be covering in game, and use all mice at 400 DPI.

So far my top score with the WMO is ~5% better (4 clicks) than with the others. IME comes in second. I think this is a larger difference in terms of the accuracy of each movement, though - slight misses are quickly compensated and don't take as long as hitting a fresh X.

I've stripped the cord halfway so far. Basically I made two circular incisions with a stanley knife at each end, like when you cut wire from the end of speaker cable. Then I cut parallel to the cord and pulled off the rubber like a zipper. This exposes the copper wrapping around the inner USB wires. I tried covering this with tape but didn't like it. Now it's exposed with no problems - I may just put some cling wrap on it since that's light and unobtrusive.

Immediately after stripping the rubber I improved my score by ~5% and maintained the new standard for 4 or 5 trials, so I'm quite sure that a lighter cord makes a huge difference.

I checked the data sheet from the product page but there was nothing there - perhaps there's another one floating around the net?

I noticed that spicke has messed around with WMO frankenmice.
http://www.esreality.com/?a=post&id=1965946
Maybe he can help. Otherwise I could just start shorting ribbon cable combinations until I work it out! Removing the board to see the solder underneath without breaking it is quite difficult ...

everything is just placebo, the more you play with a mouse the better you get (imo)

what score did you get with that reaction test?

72

With the WMO my best is 77 - I haven't gotten above 73 with the others. This is using Google Chrome. I just noticed that the geometry is different in IE/Firefox/Chrome so it may be difficult to standardize our results. Chrome has a problem where you can accidentally highlight the crosses in blue, but seems to have more dead space between squares.

I agree that the placebo effect could play a big role here. But, unfortunately, we can't do double blind tests with mice. I very much want to do better with my 5 button mice, however, so I haven't been consciously rooting for the WMO.

The cord is an issue though - sometimes you'll feel an additional force when you try to move in a certain direction and can feel the cord rubbing. This then gets into your head and you don't move and click with the same confidence.

so how much did you score then? I'd like to know so I can actually compare it to something..

I'm using the mx518.

Sorry I didn't see your reply. I haven't seriously used firefox/ie for the test yet, since I have a good feel for what a good score for me is in Chrome. [~70, highest still 77 with WMO, though I achieved that as well with the A4tech x710 with the grip modified a little and weight removed.

When I have time I'll pit mx518 vs WMO in Firefox and take a screenshot so you can see if the geometry is the same for you.

75, ball mouse.

I can beat solitaire in 23 seconds, so I'm kind of a ringer.
Get at me.

I just had a thought about how easy it would be to mass buy WMO's and ms3.0s and replace the cables (ordered from china) and then build a signed driver that runs them at 500hz.

Or something. And then sell them online by profit. If I had the cash and was still in europe I may have tried to look into that.

wonder why microsoft haven't yet released a new version of wmo and 3.0, seeing as it gets continously harder to get them in stores.

I saw that Microsoft has released a "IME 3.0 Legends Edition" but I don't think that they've fixed the issues with it.

There must be people within the company that know that they have the best gaming mice and are pushing their bosses to do back-to-basics updates of the intellimice, but they're probably shut down. Frustrating for us!

I least we can fix some of the problems ourselves. I just ordered some button microswitches and am hoping to wire my WMO side button later in the week. Might be able put in fresh mouse1/mouse2 buttons too...

i don't know if I just got lucky, but the legends edition I recently bought to replace a D.A. 3.5g didn't have the side button jiggle or the overly chunky scroll wheel. Of course, it's still not 500hz out of the box, but it's still quite nice.

Ok I've made some progress. I opened up my WMO and with help from a picture of spicke I worked out which ribbon cable thread belongs to m1, m2, m3, and ground.

[IMG]http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/1838/buttonsz.png[/IMG]

I'll sandpaper down the plastic to get to the wire underneath and then solder from there. You can see on the next shot of the case where I'll put a button. I haven't decided on the best method for this yet.

[IMG]http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/1525/shells.png[/IMG]

If possible i'll consider switching mouse1 to a better switch, but it'd be a tight fit - the Omron microswitches inside e.g. the MX518 are much larger than the ones in the WMO.

[IMG]http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/7463/mx518.png[/IMG]

This is my first attempt with using Imageshack, hope it works.

How do you open the wmo? I took out the back 2 screws, but I'm unsure how to undue to the clips at the top without breaking them.

afair there are only 2 screws on the bottom you need to take out

I used a screwdriver to push the clips ; I damaged them a bit, on the edge, but there's still enough plastic left to firmly grip when closing -but I'll try avoiding to have to open it from now on though

http://repair4mouse.org/contrib/microsoft_opt...embly.html

Pried straight up, both clips broke.

This guide is inadequate, lucky I dont actually need to use this month.

Ok, so I have my first prototype!

[IMG]http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/4126/p1000307n.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/1405/p1000306f.jpg[/IMG]

Since this WMO has a busted mouse3 button I just wired that one to the thumb side. In the mouse Imperator thread spicke showed me how he wired the buttons for his mx518+wmo mod. He used a different spot for the ground. I couldn't get the front board unclipped and get to the solder points on the bottom so I just hacked into the ribbon cable. It seems to work fine without any malfunctions when I press my side button.

The button is a Sanwa arcade switch so the action feels lovely, though the switch is much bigger than I expected. I had to cut quite a bit out of the side of the mouse. My original plan was of course to have just the button part coming through the case, like usual, but this is actually nice because I don't need to come up with a solution for a button to activate a microswitch. The exterior of the switch housing is flush with the case. I haven't glued it yet because the pressure from closing the case keeps it firmly in place.

My plan is to play with this one for a while and think of improvements, and then buy a new WMO to mod, turning the side button into mouse4. It's not the number of buttons I need though, rather the ability to hit simultaneously:

right index finger: shoot
right middle finger: secondary fire
right thumb: teamspeak

@Azrael1111
I almost broke my clips when I opened this one the first time. I sort of crushed them with a flathead screwdriver. Since then I've opened it lots of time. The best method that works for me is to pry open the mouse from the back with my fingers inside. With my other hand I use a screwdriver to force the clips out gently. With the prying pressure they eventually snap out, one at a time. They seem to need to come out at a bit of an angle.

this mouse reminds me of noctis's face mouse.

I'll take that as a complement!

So far I'm happy with it. The grip is just so natural to me... and yeah I gotta say I go for function over form... This guy won't be winning any beauty prizes.

Simultaneous access to all 3 buttons:

I've tried holding it like that, I promise. My hands are too little and my pinky can't handle it.

That person has a very tiny hand.

french nails are fail!

it only has 400dpi

I play at 25 cm/360 or thereabouts so I don't really need more... Even at 1080 desktop res. I don't mind moving the mouse around, gets my body moving. Had my A4tech at 400 DPI anyway.

whats wrong with 400 dpi? i like it

i needs 4000

I finally got around to making a simple glovepie script so that mouse wheel up/down are used but only if you scroll twice

keyboard.1 = DoubleClicked(mouse.wheelup)
keyboard.2 = DoubleClicked(mouse.wheeldown)

I assign this to 1 and 2, which I use for something or other in game.

I'll work out if it's wheel up or down that malfunctions most and just use the double click for that, probably - I think it's wheel down.

you know you can do that with a pretty small cfg script in quake? I think I even got it to work in tf2.

this is a script that you throw in your autoexec, works perfectly :)

// wheelbug script
set pglock "vstr pgreset;bind MWHEELDOWN vstr plasma;"
set pgreset "bind MWHEELDOWN vstr pglock"

// Script Area
set pummel "weapon 1;vstr pgreset"
set minimini "weapon 2;vstr pgreset"
set boomstick "weapon 3;vstr pgreset"
set shrapnels "weapon 4;vstr pgreset"
set rl "weapon 5;vstr pgreset"
set shaft "weapon 6;vstr pgreset"
set rail "weapon 7;vstr pgreset"
set plasma "weapon 8;cg_drawgun 0;cg_crosshairhitstyle 0;vstr pgreset"

//weapon binds
bind r "vstr pummel" //Gauntlet
bind 5 "vstr minimini" //MachineGun
bind g "vstr shaft" //LightningGun
bind a "vstr rail" //RailGun
bind t "vstr rl" //RocketLauncher
bind w "vstr boomstick" //ShotGun
bind v "vstr shrapnels" //Grenades
bind mwheeldown "vstr plasma" //PlasmaGun

that's pretty awesome. copied it to my evernote for future reference

what exactly does this do? will it fix my wmo randomly registering mwheelup/down by any chance? ;)

Pretty much. This script needs 2 ticks of the wheel to use the weapon bound on mwheeldown. Each weapon change including the one bound on mwheeldown resets the script to its initial state.
Gillz's version is incomplete ( and messy tbh :D ) but with a bit of tinkering you can do the same for mwheelup and even add more ticks if you want to.

Yes it will. I got this from someone after I was complaining about the scroll wheel issue on the 3.0, and the WMO. This script requires two clicks (mouse wheel down) for Plasma to be taken out. It can work for any key or wheel bind, but I'm not sure if you could do both mwheel up and down.

seta wdownlock "vstr wdownreset; bind MWHEELDOWN vstr shotgun"
seta wdownreset "bind MWHEELDOWN vstr wdownlock"
seta wuplock "vstr wupreset; bind MWHEELUP vstr gauntlet"
seta wupreset "bind MWHEELUP vstr wuplock"


add "vstr wdownreset; vstr wupreset" to your weapon binds and the job is done.

works like a charm, cheers!

I like to have minigun and gauntlet visible and other weapons not.

With this script sometimes all my weapons are visible... any ideas? ;p

maybe I did smt wrong? could you check this? :P

// Weapon binds

set xhair1 "cg_drawcrosshair 2" // GT, LG, MG, PG, CG
set xhair2 "cg_drawcrosshair 9" // Everything else

set pos1 "cg_gunz -2; cg_gunx 2; cg_guny -4; cg_drawgun 2; cl_mouseAccelOffset 0" // GT
set pos2 "cg_gunz -10; cg_gunx -10; cg_guny 3; cg_drawgun 2; cl_mouseAccelOffset 0" // Everything else apart from SG + MG, except LG
set pos3 "cg_gunz -10; cg_gunx -10; cg_guny 3; cg_drawgun 0; cl_mouseAccelOffset 0" // SG
set pos4 "cg_gunz -2; cg_gunx 2; cg_guny -4; cg_drawgun 2; cl_mouseAccelOffset 1" // MG
set pos5 "cg_gunz -10; cg_gunx -10; cg_guny 3; cg_drawgun 2; cl_mouseAccelOffset 2" // LG

set _GT "weapon 1; vstr pos1; vstr xhair1; vstr wdownreset; vstr wupreset"
set _MG "weapon 2; vstr pos4; vstr xhair1; vstr wdownreset; vstr wupreset"
set _SG "weapon 3; vstr pos3; vstr xhair2; vstr wdownreset; vstr wupreset"
set _GL "weapon 4; vstr pos2; vstr xhair2; vstr wdownreset; vstr wupreset"
set _RL "weapon 5; vstr pos2; vstr xhair2; vstr wuplock"
set _LG "weapon 6; vstr pos5; vstr xhair1; vstr wdownlock"
set _RG "weapon 7; vstr pos2; vstr xhair2; vstr wdownreset; vstr wupreset"
set _PG "weapon 8; vstr pos2; vstr xhair1; vstr wdownreset; vstr wupreset"
set _BFG "weapon 9; vstr pos2; vstr xhair2; vstr wdownreset; vstr wupreset"
set _NG "weapon 11; vstr pos2; vstr xhair2; vstr wdownreset; vstr wupreset"
set _ML "weapon 12; vstr pos2; vstr xhair2; vstr wdownreset; vstr wupreset"
set _CG "weapon 13; vstr pos2; vstr xhair1; vstr wdownreset; vstr wupreset"

set zoomon "+zoom; bind * vstr zoomoff"
set zoomoff "-zoom; bind * vstr zoomon"

bind "c" "vstr _GT"
bind "e" "vstr _MG"
bind "r" "vstr _SG"
bind "mouse3" "vstr _GL"
bind "MWHEELUP" "vstr _RL"
bind "MWHEELDOWN" "vstr _LG"
bind "SPACE" "vstr _RG"
bind "q" "vstr _PG"
bind "5" "vstr _BFG"
bind "1" "vstr _NG"
bind "4" "vstr _ML"
bind "3" "vstr _CG"

bind "mouse1" "+attack"
bind "*" "vstr zoomon"
bind "g" "dropweapon"
bind "h" "dropflag"

If you want a mouse like the WMO get the SS Xai. They seems pretty much the same when I tried them side by side though it's been a while.

Except that XAI weighs much more and is not flawless :P