Return it, like I did with my radiatoradder years ago.

oh wait---

Any other people out there that have chosen to open up the mouse to see what gets warm instead of returning it, and ou tof those, anyone that actually managed to find a solution to the overheating problem? :p

Maybe the blue LED?

Solution exchange transistor with different brand (same specs) with less heat generation. I have no idea which to take though, google is your friend

put a small copper heatsync on there with a double sticky tape to disperse the heat,& drill some holes. I got thrown out of science for correcting the science teacher on his photosynthesis diagram so I know my shit. I got him back and scratched his car with my zip.

http://www.esreality.com/files/placeimages/2012/90561-genius.gif

You don't ever mess with another dudes car, you piece of shit... (edit, especially over something so moronic)

I was like 11 so it dont count, and do you know what the killer was, I ripped the zip of another kids HEAD school bag, so I fucked with a bag, and a car 8>.

The thing is that the only way I can isolate the top of the mouse where I rest my palm from the motherboard is to build some covering that will force most of the heat out through holes in the bottom of the mouse. However, you are missing the point. It doesn't matter if I dissipate it with a heatsink since the heatsink has to be inside the mouse anyway. So the only way to do this is to find a solution that will reduce the heat generation. What I find strange that no one can say is what is the most common cause of a transistor getting hot, and here are some examples that I would like to have one solution picked out of:

a) transistor is defective - get a good one
b) transistor is ok, there is something else defective that causes it to get hot
c) transistor is ok, but is the fault of the manufacturer putting in a poor one, so I need to replace it with a better one.

as an alternate solution, however I don't know if is true or not, someone said that replacing it with a transistor with bigger wattage, will compensate for the situation where there is another component faulty.
Anyone can help with this please?

find the transistor model (if you are lucky) and post it here (black, half cyl is just standard to-92 package)

Here is what is written on it:
1722-33L

Someone said that it is a Low Dropout Linear Regulator, more specifically AIC1722-33.
Is there any workaround about it to get it replaced with something better that doesn't get that hot? (heatsink solution doesn't work, as I don't care if the heat is in 1 place or is all around the mouse, as I will still feel it in my palm as long as the heat is not taken outside the mouse.

One other solution I thought about is to actually make such a long wire to this component, that i can actually mount if in the front of mouse, where the cable is. Obviously I have no clue if this works or not, however, is one way to make the heat get out of the mouse into a place where it doesn't bother me.

EDIT:
Anyone that opened up his Razer Deathadder Black Edition can check if this component is there or not?
And seriously, so many people with cold hands that no one really complains about this? I find it unacceptable though.

ye, it's an LDO, it steps down and stabilizes the input voltage.
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/aic/AIC1722.pdf

you could try with the external cable trick (AWG 25 minimum, since LDO rating is 300mA).
trouble is that you need *very good connections, since the mouse power will flow through these cables. so, again, source of heat near your fingertips.

if you want to go for an alternative dcdc, you can consider this, but you will have to modify a bit the pcb (quite a pain in the ass) or, again, use cabling.
it's complicated and it's not the right solution.

if the mouse is really hot, I guess there could be some problems with the electronics. you may want to check if it's supposed to work like that.

if i were you, i would try to remove the led circuitry, which draws a noticeable amount of power and, thus, heats up the whole thing.

I have removed all the leds inside, to avoid overheating.
From what I understood is a design flaw, but some deathadder mice overheat more then others, and mine overheats quite a bit.
I have also tried to see if this is the only thing that is overheating, i guess it is. I would like to be able to find out why my mouse overheats more then other deathadders, so that I can fix the bad component.
Do you think that also the wires will overheat not only the component itself? Cause the only good place where i can move the overheating component by using very long wires is where the cable exist the mouse.
The solution you sugested with modifying the pcb is far more then my inexistent knowledge about components, this being my very first project ever.
I still think that the best solution would be to have someone tell me which would be the hoghest probability components to replace, and i will also replace the aic1722 which i already ordered.

Edit:
I believe I did not remove the led circuitry but I only didn't connect it.
I don-t even know how to do it. Certain thing is that I need to find out what is worth replacing as components on the pcb hopefuly is not the optical sensor or any deathadder specific component.

wires: if wires are correctly sized (the AWG std gauge size i suggested you be4), they won't overheat but solders are critic, since bad solders will result in a quite high resistivity (resistance = power loss), poor mechanical strength and reliability. also, fixing the component outside the mouse will be quite tricky: you will have some heat (the same you "felt" inside the mouse IF that's the hot component) on the comm. cable AND your fingertips. basically, you just move your stove.

pcb: it was just a possible scenario, but not the right one.

flawed components/replacement: unfortunately, there are plenty of flaws which could lead your DA to overheat, i.e. a bad resistor, a poor pcb connection, a bad pcb track, or even the sensor itself! even with schematics, you should verify what is really heating and why it's doing that.

led: I guess you can also disable the led from razer app. anyway, if it's off, it's done.

I tried to replace the component with another one that is 500ma instead of 300ma.
The new component is overheating too. However i did notice that the pcb itself is overheating a bit on the other side of a condensator. Could this be a sign that is the condensator faulty?

I don't know what I will do in the end but probably I would be more lucky with someone elses broken mouse that doesn't overheat.

Edit: i did see that only the passive radiator of the component overheats but doesn't feel like it is so bad or maybe is the fact that it has a radiator making the transfer faster so it feels like is overheating less. However tomorow I put back the mouse together with the mew component and I will let you know how it works. And btw it does function even if is 500 mA instead of 300mA

Can i ask why is this heat a problem for you because when i check on datasheet the proper temperature is beetwen -40 and +125 C so it's still working properly.

Another matter that this current you probably checking is the maximum guaranteed current so the value doesnt matter after all cuz it's still getting less than 300mA

test capacitor value and you will know.
lots of monitors "die" just since electrolytic caps dry and don't work well :)

I didn't understand the heatsink thing.

Sorry for poor explaining but the component I replaced it with has a small radiator which takes the heat and keeps the component itself a bit cooler. However it does seem that the pcb itself is a bit warmer. I will be really pissed off over Razer if it proves that they only reduced the voltage to get a cheaper sensor. That would mean something really bad for me.
Is it possible to explain a bit how can I check for a condensator if is working correctly or not?


Edit: I will say it again: YES it DOES bother me that I have a product that overheats due to some fail inside it. Is not the temperature limit that i am concerned about, is the fact that all the heat generated inside the mouse makes the mouse close to unusable after 30 min of usage.

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