Hello guys,
i've recently done some WMO-Adder mods and want to share my findings on this, because I found it quite hard to get some informations about this mod (and ESR registration doesn't seem to work :/ ).
I managed already to mod two WMOs (1.1a), one with the guts from a Deathadder 3G (1800 DPI) and one with a DA 3.5G (3500 DPI).
First thing to say, if you only swap the sensor the mousewheel scroll wont work at all only middlemouse button, because the mice uses different tech each for registering scrolls.
In order to get a working scrollwheel you need to swap it from the DA to the WMO, wich is not so hard as I thought first.
The hardest thing was to figure out the right pinout.
I managed to get it frome some guys pics who already done WMO-Adders and some wiretracing.
Some pictures will follow later, I'm currently at work and have some freetime to post this guide
Tools I used:
Solder iron
Solder
Helping hand (tool with clamps to fix the pcbs while soldering)
Tong
Cuttingknife
Drill
Sandpaper
Hotgluegun
Steps:
Preparing the WMO-shell to fit the DA sensor
Mousewheel-encoder swap
Mousewheel fusion
Soldering both pcbs together
Fitting in and some finetuning of positioning
First open both mice, you'll find guides for the steps using google wink.gif
Step 1 - preparing the shell:
If you look inside the WMO shell you'll have two locations for the pcb, the "button part" and the "sensor part".
Everything thats behind the button part has to be flatened.
I used a tong, cuttingknife and sandpaper.
I broke out the most of the sensor part with tong and used the sandpaper to clean it down.
Next I drilled up the sensor window to the bottom so that the DA sensor-pcb could fit without having it to cut.
When everything fits without much wobbeling and the DA sensor still gets the mousecursor moved its good.
Step 2 - Mousewheel-encoder swap:
For the mousewheel mod first you need to desolder the wheel-encoder out of the DAs pcb.
It's easiest if you take a good pinch of solder on the irons tip and then pull it over the three connectors from the wheel-encoder.
Then you can carefully pull the wheel-encoder out and be carefull not to bend the little legs to much, they are a easy to bend over if heatend.
After that you do the same with the WMOs wheel-encoder.
To install the DA encoder on the WMO pcb you have to install it reverse as the DAs installment was.
Step 3 - Mousewheel fusion:
You take the wheelthingy appart from the WMOs mousewheel and flat it down, the otherside for the middlemouse button stays.
Then you take the DAs wheel and cut of the nib wich connects to the encoder carefully with a cuttingknife.
Time to connect the nib to the WMO wheel, therefore you drill a whole in the middle of the WMO wheel (used 2.5 mm diameter drill) and put the DAs wheel nib in it, till it mostly sits in and only the boat tail with the nib sits outside.
I've done this trial and error until it fits best.
Step 4 - Soldering pcbs together:
Here's the pinout for the 3.5G mod, if 3G pinout is wished, I'll upload it later because I'm at work ;)
Pinout 3.5G mod:
(DA 3.5G pinout is written on PCB, WMO pinout is from left mousebutton to right mousebutton)
Layout
I've cuttet the flatwires from both mice so, that I had enough lenght left to connect them.
I splitted them up, tied them together and soldered them according to the "layout" shown above.
Then tested the bare pcb if it works and tada, it did smile.gif
Also I glued the DAs led to the WMOs red back part for some crazy stylish light effects - yay breathing WMO
Step 5 - Fitting in:
After everything was done I finetuned the perfect position for balance and sensor positioning.
Sensor position is a bit more backwards than the original WMO, but I it's fine for me.
Then glued it up with some small points of hotglue and ended up with a weight of 84g without cable on the 3.5G mod, the 3G mod is 82g.
Probably you could save another gramms if you use superglue instead of hotglue, but I was to lazy to get some. ^^
I think this mod is also do-able with IMs (maybe with working DAs sidebuttons) and IE 3.0s but dunno if the layout is the same.
So I hope this helps someone out who wants to do this and hasn't had a clue how to do it.
Feel free to ask if some questions come up.
Also I don't know if this is the right forum for it, if not please move it to right topic.
Ah - and sorry for my english, I'm from germany had it only at school and this is 8 years ago :P
(This is a copy/paste of my overclock.net post cuz registration failed first on ESR)
i've recently done some WMO-Adder mods and want to share my findings on this, because I found it quite hard to get some informations about this mod (and ESR registration doesn't seem to work :/ ).
I managed already to mod two WMOs (1.1a), one with the guts from a Deathadder 3G (1800 DPI) and one with a DA 3.5G (3500 DPI).
First thing to say, if you only swap the sensor the mousewheel scroll wont work at all only middlemouse button, because the mice uses different tech each for registering scrolls.
In order to get a working scrollwheel you need to swap it from the DA to the WMO, wich is not so hard as I thought first.
The hardest thing was to figure out the right pinout.
I managed to get it frome some guys pics who already done WMO-Adders and some wiretracing.
Some pictures will follow later, I'm currently at work and have some freetime to post this guide
Tools I used:
Solder iron
Solder
Helping hand (tool with clamps to fix the pcbs while soldering)
Tong
Cuttingknife
Drill
Sandpaper
Hotgluegun
Steps:
Preparing the WMO-shell to fit the DA sensor
Mousewheel-encoder swap
Mousewheel fusion
Soldering both pcbs together
Fitting in and some finetuning of positioning
First open both mice, you'll find guides for the steps using google wink.gif
Step 1 - preparing the shell:
If you look inside the WMO shell you'll have two locations for the pcb, the "button part" and the "sensor part".
Everything thats behind the button part has to be flatened.
I used a tong, cuttingknife and sandpaper.
I broke out the most of the sensor part with tong and used the sandpaper to clean it down.
Next I drilled up the sensor window to the bottom so that the DA sensor-pcb could fit without having it to cut.
When everything fits without much wobbeling and the DA sensor still gets the mousecursor moved its good.
Step 2 - Mousewheel-encoder swap:
For the mousewheel mod first you need to desolder the wheel-encoder out of the DAs pcb.
It's easiest if you take a good pinch of solder on the irons tip and then pull it over the three connectors from the wheel-encoder.
Then you can carefully pull the wheel-encoder out and be carefull not to bend the little legs to much, they are a easy to bend over if heatend.
After that you do the same with the WMOs wheel-encoder.
To install the DA encoder on the WMO pcb you have to install it reverse as the DAs installment was.
Step 3 - Mousewheel fusion:
You take the wheelthingy appart from the WMOs mousewheel and flat it down, the otherside for the middlemouse button stays.
Then you take the DAs wheel and cut of the nib wich connects to the encoder carefully with a cuttingknife.
Time to connect the nib to the WMO wheel, therefore you drill a whole in the middle of the WMO wheel (used 2.5 mm diameter drill) and put the DAs wheel nib in it, till it mostly sits in and only the boat tail with the nib sits outside.
I've done this trial and error until it fits best.
Step 4 - Soldering pcbs together:
Here's the pinout for the 3.5G mod, if 3G pinout is wished, I'll upload it later because I'm at work ;)
Pinout 3.5G mod:
(DA 3.5G pinout is written on PCB, WMO pinout is from left mousebutton to right mousebutton)
Layout
I've cuttet the flatwires from both mice so, that I had enough lenght left to connect them.
I splitted them up, tied them together and soldered them according to the "layout" shown above.
Then tested the bare pcb if it works and tada, it did smile.gif
Also I glued the DAs led to the WMOs red back part for some crazy stylish light effects - yay breathing WMO
Step 5 - Fitting in:
After everything was done I finetuned the perfect position for balance and sensor positioning.
Sensor position is a bit more backwards than the original WMO, but I it's fine for me.
Then glued it up with some small points of hotglue and ended up with a weight of 84g without cable on the 3.5G mod, the 3G mod is 82g.
Probably you could save another gramms if you use superglue instead of hotglue, but I was to lazy to get some. ^^
I think this mod is also do-able with IMs (maybe with working DAs sidebuttons) and IE 3.0s but dunno if the layout is the same.
So I hope this helps someone out who wants to do this and hasn't had a clue how to do it.
Feel free to ask if some questions come up.
Also I don't know if this is the right forum for it, if not please move it to right topic.
Ah - and sorry for my english, I'm from germany had it only at school and this is 8 years ago :P
(This is a copy/paste of my overclock.net post cuz registration failed first on ESR)
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