After 10+ long happy years and still counting, my favorite Microsoft mouse has developed faults that needs looking into. The left button started double clicking and the right has been sticking for a while. Enough to annoy me to finally consider taking it apart and fixing some of the other common issues, like the dreadful mouse wheel skip that I got since day one. I'm researching as we speak to see what Omron switches to order and check out the wheel mechanism issue. Anyone know how to take the feet without ruining them? I've ordered some cheap teflon feet but wanna make sure they are slippery enough like the OEM stuff. I will keep updating on the progress...
Amazing how this 25 worth of mouse developed such a hype over the years. Even China made some copies that I never got to try and recently heard they officially re-released the IE 3.0., but not sure what sensor is in there and how the drivers stack up. This is why I like the simplicity of the original, 400dpi, plug and play, perfect shape for big hands, been using it @ 1000hz overclocked. Definitely worth to keep it going for another 10 more years.

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Update:
Well the dream is over! First It took 3 weeks for the Omron switches to arrive along with the Teflon feet. Prior to that I spend some time carefully removing the feet, which honestly was easy, and completely scraped the rubber coating and polished the black plastic. Cleaning all the crap from inside, especially the wheel made it spin like butter. All this trouble just to solder the Razer D2FC-F-K (RZ) green switches and find it doesn’t always click. The worst part is I’m not sure what’s wrong with the design, I’ve never opened this mouse before but I can’t put it back together. Everything bolts perfectly, slips and clicks nicely into location, yet as soon as I close the chassi the left clicks bottoms out. I spend 2 solid days fucking around soldering/desoldering the OEM D2FC-F-7N (MS) switches, I tried spacing them out, the plastic coming down on the trigger is not worn out or broken, as soon as I start tightening down with the screws either the left or the right click bottoms out. If I leave it lose it rattles and still doesn’t work. Well none of it would have mattered as even with the top off and just clicking directly on the PCB with the new or old switches, the LMB completely stopped working. I bypassed the PCB by soldering a direct wire and still the same issue. The Intellimouse 3.0 is trash now. I’m not angy as I didn’t take it apart for no reason but wtf is with the plastic body not hitting the switches, I inspected that shit over and over and there is nothing broken or missing, or sitting crooked. I didn’t really get to try the new switches but I’m going to be honest, dry clicking the D2FC-F-7N are better and cheaper. It’s not like keyboard cherries where you can tell the difference between brown/black/red etc… with micro switches there is no less travel, extra sharpness, or easy to press down, the only thing is the clicking sound it makes. So yeah time to close the final chapter.

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