Amasing job man. But i have to add that there is not only monitor motion blur but also eyes motion blur, and concidering the later one the only way to make it better is to raise the refresh rate as much as possible. And raising refresh rate also reduce tearing. I still didn't tried the lightboost trick. I first want an uninstal tutorial.

I'm still waiting also for some top QL players stating that the 120Hz lightboost is better than the 144Hz "normal" mode.

Actually, the good news is LightBoost already does this.

(1) ZERO eye tracking blur!! (caused by static frames on display) LightBoost already eliminate eye motion blur by shortening frame samples stroboscopically, much like a CRT. LightBoost adds a large black-screen gap between frames, which successfully eliminates the LCD sample-and-hold effect. There is ZERO eye tracking blur caused by the display with LightBoost (at LightBoost OSD setting of 50% or less, as long as not "OFF"). Zero means it's below human perceptible level. The remaining motion blur is naturally created by your brain, the display just stops being a bottleneck, zero blur caused by the display, like a CRT.
See: YouTube High Speed Video Proof

Ever wondered why CRT 60fps@60Hz looks clearer than regular LCD 120fps@120Hz? Yup! Because CRT flickers. Refresh rate is Not Everything. There is good research about this in this Microsoft Research paper, and also "Why Do Some OLED's Have Motion Blur?". LightBoost solves the problem and point-samples (synchronized stroboscopic backlight flashes) the refreshes onto the human retinas as you track moving objects on a screen. So no sample-and-hold problem. It's solved by LightBoost!

(2) You can compensate for the inability to raise refresh rate, by increasing your framerate too, having insane frame rates beyond refresh rate.. At 300fps, having 300 tiny-offset tearlines is harder to see during fast motion than 100 big-offset tearlines at 100fps. So uncap your framerate in Quake Live if you like VSYNC OFF.

I understand you don't want to try out LightBoost until some professional competition gamers try it with Quake Live. I should point out that competition gamers have tried it with other games, and have liked it (Team Exile 5, already mentioned in big post). I should point out that I've posted instructions on how to turn off LightBoost in the LightBoost HOWTO, in the "Tips" section. Even so, I will be expanding it with full uninstall instructions soon.

Another good image of the traditional LCD sample-and-hold problem, causing eye-tracking based motion blur.

LightBoost point-samples the refreshes stroboscopically. So LightBoost completely solves this (especially when you shorten the stroboscopic flashes by configuring the monitor "LightBoost" OSD setting to 50% or less, but not "OFF"), AFTER enabling LightBoost.

--------- EDIT ADDED BELOW ---------

Both me and B4ZE are simultaneously correct:
--> This is not about human vision system limitations. There is always natural motion blur.
(LightBoost does NOT solve that part.)
--> This is about display limitations that FORCE additional eye tracking motion blur above and beyond vision limitations. We want the display to cease to be the motion blur limitation.
(LightBoost SOLVES that part.)
--> That's also why CRT has less motion blur than LCD.
Displays do not always need extra Hz to reduce motion blur.
Displays can also use flicker to reduce motion blur.
--> LightBoost is not for everyone. Individual preferences.

mdrejhon, nothing can eliminate human eye blur mechanism. We can discuss the motion blur topic if you want, it can maybe somehow in a dialectical way improve our knowledge but. Don't ignore the tearing effect that is still present even at 120Hz. On a sidenote NVC said he tried the lightboost trick and it was bad.

I will post my test method for the tearing effect soon ;)

nvc also said Shootmania was good.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA xD

i have to say u make a point man. And quite a big one x)

I miss nvc :(

B4ZE, We are both correct, for different reasons:

--> I'm NOT talking about human vision system limitations.
(Yes, you are right about that, LightBoost does NOT solve that part.)
--> I'm talking about display limitation enforcing eye-tracking motion blur above-and-beyond human vision limitations. LightBoost DOES solves that.

Sample-and-hold displays cause a dis-synchronization between the display and the eye tracking, that's above-and-beyond eye-tracking abilities. The display is forcing you to have additional eye tracking motion blur above-and-beyond human limitation. Human eyes are not stepper motors that move in stop-motion steps in sync with frames/refreshes. "Frames per second" is an artificial human invention because real life has no "frames per second". So sample-and-hold displays enforce a non-synchronization between the analog human eye movement and the stepped movement of the frames. This create additional eye-tracking motion blur above-and-beyond human eye limitation.

We all know that CRT has clearer motion than LCD. Even CRT 60fps@60Hz has sharper-looking fast motion than LCD 120fps@120Hz. LCD pixel response times (1-2ms) are now approaching effective CRT phosphor decay times (1-2ms) of medium persistence phosphor found on Sony FW900. LCD pixel response time alone isn't the only solution. You need to also fix the sample-and-hold problem too as well. LightBoost solves that part. The sample-and-hold effect causes the display to have more eye tracking motion blur than the human limitation. The display has thus removed a motion blur bottleneck, and now all remaining motion blur is caused by your vision limitations. Pans on LCD now become as perfectly clear as CRT. Fast scrolling images as perfectly sharp as a photograph being waved past your face at the same speed. Whatever motion blur occurs, is caused by human vision limitations. The display is no longer the limiting factor because the motion is now in sync with the eye tracking.

LightBoost at 2.0ms (1/500sec) strobe flashes have exactly the same amount of motion blur as as a 500fps@500Hz sample-and-hold display. Flicker displays using 1/"X" second strobe lengths have the same amount of motion blur as "X" Hz flicker-free displays (sample-and-hold). In other words, lightBoost is visually equivalent to a 500Hz display with lots of blacked-out frames in between the 120 refreshes. Flicker fusion does the rest. You have a visible refresh that's 1/500th second with the same motion blur benefit of 500fps@500Hz. Motion blur is unaffected by the black frame insertion effect. Thus, you don't need higher Hz to get the benefits of higher Hz. You can instead flicker (get shorter frame display lengths) to eliminate motion blur. Scientific references have already been given -- there's a long list that explains sample and hold.

As you can see, you do NOT always need extra Hz to reduce motion blur. You can ALSO use flicker to reduce motion blur in exactly the same way. Both methods shortens the amount of time a specific refresh is displayed for; that's the limiting factor that's being removed by flicker displays such as CRT, plasma, and LightBoost. The stroboscopic effect is very powerful in eliminating motion blur.

We all also already familiar that shorter strobes have the ability to eliminate motion blur in faster moving objects in photography too - witness the old black and white photos of a bullet flying through an apple. The scientific understanding of those kinds of stuff is also necessary to understand how shortening frame sample lengths (even without increasing Hz) can reduce motion blur.

Thus limiting factor of the display is removed, meaning zero motion blur from the display. Any remaining motion blur is caused (correctly as you say) your human vision limitation.

Again, we are both correct, for different reasons.

Note: LightBoost is not for everyone. Some may prefer LCD, others may prefer CRT. Also, LightBoost can lead to worse colors. Some people find the lack of motion blur is more important, and this is a worthy feature to be built into monitors, to be used at the user's choice..

Note #2: Yesterday's scanning backlights (e.g. existing technology) did not do as good a job, due to incompatibility with computer/games because of input lag. And and due to backlight leakage between ON segments and OFF segments. Strobe backlights are superior to scanning backlights for motion blur elimination, as a result.

More science references about the sample-and-hold problem, and also gives an understanding why flicker (i.e. CRT) solves the motion blur problem:

“Temporal Rate Conversion” (Microsoft Research)
Information about frame rate conversion, that also explains how eye tracking produces perceived motion blur on a sample-and-hold display, including explanatory diagrams.

“Correlation between perceived motion blur and MPRT measurement”
by J. Someya (SID’05 Digest, pp. 1018–1021, 2005.)
Covers the relationship between human perceived motion blur versus Motion Picture Response Time (MPRT) of the display. This also accounts for motion blur caused by eye tracking on a sample-and-hold display, a separate factor than pixel persistence.

“What is needed in LCD panels to achieve CRT-like motion portrayal?”
by A. A. S. Sluyterman (Journal of the SID 14/8, pp. 681-686, 2006.)
This is an older 2006 paper that explains how scanning backlight can help bypass much of an LCD panel’s pixel persistence.

“Frame Rate conversion in the HD Era”
by Oliver Erdler (Stuttgart Technology Center, EuTEC, Sony Germany, 2008)
Page 4 has very useful motion blur diagrams, comparing sample-and-hold versus impulse-driven displays.

“Perceptually-motivated Real-time Temporal Upsampling of 3D Content for High-refresh-rate Displays”
by Piotr Didyk, Elmar Eisemann, Tobias Ritschel, Karol Myszkowski, Hans-Peter Seidel
(EUROGRAPHICS 2010 by guest editors T. Akenine-Möller and M. Zwicker)
Section “3. Perception of Displays” (and Figure 1) explains how LCD pixel response blur can be separate from hold-type (eye-tracking) motion blur.

“Display-induced motion artifacts”
by Johan Bergquist (Display and Optics Research, Nokia-Japan, 2007)
Many excellent graphics and diagrams of motion blur, including impulse-driven and sample-and-hold examples.

B4ZE, we are both correct, for different reasons.
--> I'm NOT talking about human vision system limitations.
(Yes, you are right about that, LightBoost does NOT solve that.)
--> I'm talking about display limitations that is above-and-beyond human vision limitations.
(LightBoost DOES solves that part; display no longer the limiting factor)

Imagine keeping your eyes fixed while a physical object zooms by. You'll see lots of blur becaue of your eyes. Now, the object zooms by and you follow it with your eyes. Much less blur, since you're keeping the object in the center of your vision. It's as if it's hardly moving.

So I say that you can at least greatly reduce the human eye blur mechanism using the human eye tracking mechanism (muscles). Evolution gave this to us.

The remaining problem is with the monitor. Ideally a moving object on the monitor would move continuously like the object in the real world, so as our eyes track it it moves smoothly with them.

But monitors don't move the object continuously; they move it some, then have it stop there for the whole frame, then move it again some, and stop there. We're basically back at the first scenario, only now it's the object that's stationary and your eyes that are continuously moving!

The fix is to have the monitor flash the object for a very short time, then show black until it flashes the object at the new position. This way it's not giving our eyes false information ("the object is standing still for 8 msec") and creating a blur.

So no, our eyes are not the problem here at all. Even if we had no persistence in our eyes, if we had 1000000 FPS vision, sample-and-hold LCDs that show the frame for the entire duration would look like the object was constantly jiggling as we moved our eyes to track its apparent motion. It would look TERRIBLE.

- blargg

Exactly, i wail make a post about this too.

+1
Blargg is correct. Eliminating motion blur by shortening the frame sample. (by introducing black period between refreshes). Blargg also agrees that you don't always need higher Hz to eliminate motion blur.

Blargg just essentially also clearly explained the graphs I've posted too -- continuously moving eyes versus statically displayed frames that step forward one frame at a time.

This is also exactly what I wrote about in my post too.
Just worded differently. If my post looks different from Blargg, re-read my post and it'll now suddenly make sense when using Blargg's post as context. I just use different terminology. Blargg's wording is nicely done.

I'm trying this right now, going to see what the difference is like (benq xl2420t)

Got it working (killed my custom 1440x1080 rez but I'll try to fix that later).

The testimonials are right, it's literally like a CRT. Unfortunately I have CRT TV-like lines on the top right of my benq, not sure why.

If you plan re-create 1440x1080, use a Vertical Total of at least 1149, so you can have a LightBoost compatible 1440x1080.

do you recommend an application to do this? Adding a custom rez in Nvidia doesn't give me a Vertical Total option, I'm assuming I need to edit the .inf. What should I use?

You need to change to "Manual" instead of "GTF" or "DMT" or "Automatic"; this will let you edit the Vertical Total.

Vertical Total = grand total vertical resolution, vertical front porch, vertical back porch, vertical sync. Sometimes not all these numbers are editable, but if there's only a "Vertical Total" value, edit just that value.

When I go to test that resolution, my monitor switches to 1440x1080 properly and the way I want, but the software tells me it's a resolution incompatible with the display.

What's the effect on monitor durability?

just like 3D mode. afaik 3D mode have no effect on monitor durability.

Was wondering the same question.

None whatsoever.

It's designed to do this, calling it a hack is just overkill.

Does this work for Alienware AW2310?

Yes, it should. It has LightBoost.

It is not listed in my FAQ because nobody has tested an Alienware for me yet... You will be the first person to test an AW2310, please report back.

tried it on my aw2310 (via both unofficial methods/instructions), it made the screen a lot brighter and with worse contrast, but had no effect on pixerpan readability test, and no lightboost option in the monitor's OSD so I can only assume it doesn't work on the aw2310.

do you have a source that confirms that the aw2310 has lightboost? I can't find any and was under the assumption that it didn't.

Can you link this pixerpan test pl0x I can confirm that it's made my Quake crisper and brighter.

http://www.softpedia.com/get/Desktop-Enhancem...erAn.shtml

You try this at all? I've got the same monitor but alittle reluctant to mess with it after frying my crt doing 160hz :p

Na haha

Ok I set it up and I can say I can notice a difference. Like at first I didnt notice cos I thought the refresh rate was suppose to be higher or something but then I noticed everything was more crisp and clear (brighter even) Lets see if it burns out the monitor or not :P

So does it still work? :D

didnt read the whole thing but i know ppl have been praising lightboost. well i have 2 questions.

does it give you more eye strain than normal mode, and thus giving you a headache or less hours you can spend in front of it before getting eye fatigue?

is there no chance that it'll ever work with amd cards in the future?
i like my 2233 and 7850 so i guess not really worth changing, for me.

does it give you more eye strain than normal mode, and thus giving you a headache or less hours you can spend in front of it before getting eye fatigue?

for my eyes lighboost is ok. some has eye fatigue or headache with lightboost. some people have discomfort even with LCD :)

is there no chance that it'll ever work with amd cards in the future?

there is chance that will work with ATI card in the future. question is when?

about headache/eye fatigue you can search here and here.

no headache for me.

h8m3 shared a link about non-amd cards support. ill look for the post.
EDIT: here

Depends.

--> It varies by person but if you didn't mind CRT @ 120Hz, you won't mind LightBoost at 120Hz. If you have't gamed on CRT for a long time, you might get discomfort until you're used to it. (Follow nVidia's recommendation to do rest periods; they wrote a warning label for 3D Vision. Same thing.)
--> It's MUCH better than 3D glasses flicker though.
--> Some do say they get a headache,
--> Other say they have less eyestrain than PWM (during fast motion) because the lack of motion blur is more pleasing to the eye in video games; I'm not trying as hard to focus on moving objects.
--> Some people say their eyes simply get tired (no eyestrain), not sure if it's from the flicker, or simply moving eyes around more often, due to much clearer moving objects. Have rest periods if your eyes aren't used to the exercise.
--> Some people said their BENQ was too bright even at 0%. Enabling LightBoost, then adjusting it downwards to OSD "LightBoost=10%" allows the screen to be dimmer; so some people appreciated that part of the LightBoost benefit (if they're a person that likes a dimmer image)

Most people don't see a difference in strain; the 120Hz is above most people's flicker fusion threshold.

maybe i am wrong, but PWM effect should be the switched power flow regulation which allows you to dim leds luminosity. so, it should always be present.
mind discussing about this?

PWM cause multiple problems for the human. It can be the flicker/headache problem. Or it can be artifact problem. Or both. Artifacts during motion can become noticeable to the human eye during the dimmest brightness settings, especially on LED monitors:

TFTCentral: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/pulse_width_modulation.htm
BlurBusters: http://www.blurbusters.com/faq/lcd-motion-artifacts/

Displays that do just ONE precisely synchronized strobe, once per refresh (e.g. CRT, LightBoost) eliminates the ugly PWM repeat-image artifacts. Mind you, some people's eyestrain is from the PWM flicker itself (flicker discomfort), or from the PWM artifacts themselves (ugly repeat images) but other people's eyestrain is from other factors (e.g. image too bright), or eyestrain from the motion blur itself (eyes spending energy trying to focus on always-blurry moving objects), or from picture calibration issues (e.g. bad gamma can cause eye discomfort). Vega of HardForum said he gets eyestrain with 360 Hz PWM but doesn't get eyestrain with 120 Hz LightBoost. He uses Brightness below 20%, so that makes PWM artifacts look visibly bad on LED monitors. However, there's zero PWM artifacts with LightBoost. It varies on the person, what your eyestrain is caused by.

You can turn adjust Brightness up/down, and you can turn on/off LightBoost, as well as adjust LightBoost OSD setting up/down. If you were a CRT user and didn't mind, LightBoost will usually look pleasing to the eyes if you can sustain 120fps (or uncapped framerate if VSYNC OFF), VSYNC ON looks pretty but a lot of us need VSYNC OFF for gaming (so we need to tweak VSYNC OFF to look smooth).

Bottom line: You might get eyestrain. You might not. It's similar to CRT. As a rule of thumb, if your eyes got comfortable with 120Hz CRT, your eyes can become comfortable with 120Hz LightBoost (unless it's due to other factors such as brightness, gamma, etc)

yes, i got this (thanks for the post btw), but my question was:
does lightboost allow you to dim led light instead of reducing PWM from 100%?
otherwise, PWM artifacts will always be there if you want to decrease brightness.

There is no PWM artifact if it's just ONE strobe per refresh.
CRT's is visually equivalent to PWM to the eyes occuring at one strobe per refresh. CRT phosphor also flashes (phosphor illuminates and decays). LightBoost is essentially "motion perfect" comfortable 120 Hz PWM. It's "less evil" than PWM; to the point that if you're used to CRT, you'll be fine with LightBoost.

360Hz PWM @ 120Hz = ugly triple image effect (sharp triple)
240Hz PWM @ 120Hz = ugly double image effect (sharp double)
120Hz PWM @ 120Hz = perfect CRT clarity (one sharp image)

As you can see, the number of image-repeats in PWM artifacts is (PWM frequency / Hz frequency). It can even be fractional (leading to stuttery-looking PWM artifacts). e.g. A non-dividing number such as 200 Hz PWM on 60 Hz looks even worse.

Same problem happens on CRT at 30fps@60Hz. You get the double-image effect because 60 Hz CRT looks similar 60Hz PWM to eyes. So you need fps=Hz to eliminate PWM artifacts. (duplicate-image effect).

Obviously, for perfect CRT clarity the single strobe needs to be strobed exactly between LCD refreshes, right after the LCD pixel persistence is complete for the previous frame, but before the next LCD refresh begins. There is a high speed video at: http://www.blurbusters.com/zero-motion-blur/

As you can see, the backlight is turned off while waiting for pixel transitions (unseen by human eyes), and the backlight is strobed only on fully-refreshed LCD frames (seen by human eyes). The strobes can be shorter than pixel transitions, breaking the pixel persistence barrier.

P.S. PWM artifacts is also an excellent indirect demonstration of eye-tracking-based motion blur that's enforced upon you by the computer monitor, above-and-beyond human limitation (natural motion blur). If you don't have LightBoost (or it is turned off), you can see PWM artifacts for yourself by lowering the brightness on a common LED monitor like ASUS or BENQ to minimum (0%) and then run the PixPerAn Motion Test. Or simply drag a bright window on a dark background around and look at the edges. A motion test that scrolls a moving object horiziontally, at a motion speed of about half-screenwidth or full-screenwidth per second. You'll immediately see multiple sharp copies of the PixPerAn car (and I NEED MORE SOCKS balloon) -- that's the PWM artifact. Or multiple sharp edges when dragging a window smoothly at medium speed. BTW, PixPerAn is the same test pattern you see in many monitor reviews including TFTcentral and pcmonitors.info.

As you track moving objects during motion (e.g. PixPerAn car, a dragged window, or other smooth moving object) , each 'copy' of repeated images (the PWM artifact) looks quite sharp (much sharper than without PWM at 100% brightness). You see multiple copies because your eyes are tracking across a refresh, as I've already explained -- your eyeballs are in different position at the beginning of a refresh than at the end of a refresh. So the PWM flickers (on the same frame) show as misaligned PWM artifacts, since each flicker occurs in a different position of your retinas as you track your eyes.

In addition, It's also good "see-it-for-yourself" proof that shorter pulses (strobes) leads to less motion blur. (And for shorter pulses within PWM, leads to sharper copies of images in the repeat-image effect)

LightBoost is simply super-precise motion-perfect 120 Hz PWM.
LightBoost eliminates all PWM artifacts, and keeps one super sharp image during fast motion, just like a flickering CRT correctly strobing once per refresh. LightBoost is essentially 120 Hz PWM; but a lesser-evil PWM (at least for people whose eyes are comfortable to the PWM-style flicker of a CRT) since it stroboscopically produces only one sharp copy onto your retinas per refresh; and prevents eye-tracking-based motion blur enforced upon you by the display (above and beyond natural human motion blur limitation).

This is also why zero motion blur effect maximizes at fps=Hz -- one strobe per refresh. 360 Hz PWM is not friendly to either 60fps or 120fps due to the PWM artifact. The PWM must match the refresh rate. Sure, that could become a flicker problem for some people -- but not everyone -- and there should be an option to turn on/off LightBoost in the monitor -- so users have a choice of zero-flicker display or zero-motion-blur display.

LightBoost eliminates all PWM artifacts, and keeps one super sharp image during fast motion, just like a flickering CRT correctly strobing once per refresh. LightBoost is essentially 120 Hz PWM; but a lesser-evil PWM (at least for people whose eyes are comfortable to the PWM-style flicker of a CRT) since it stroboscopically produces only one sharp copy onto your retinas per refresh; and prevents eye-tracking-based motion blur enforced upon you by the display (above and beyond natural human motion blur limitation).

lightboost details are still foggy to me and I didn't find anything useful on the web, sorry.
so, I try to rephrase my question based on these assumptions i made:

PWM is the pulsed energization of backlight leds in order to regulate brightness. right?
PWM is always asynchronous with respect to display refresh. right?
lightboost strobe = a single "on-off" polarization of TN cells matrix for producing a single frame. right?

so, as you said before, if you rely on PWM (asynchronous with respect to display refresh) for changing brightness, you will always have PWM artifacts (except for full brightness, in which you don't pulse energy transfer). i.e. crosstalk between different frames + noise

in order to avoid PWM artifacts:
if lightboost off, you are supposed to set brightness (and thus, PWM modulation level) to 100%.

if lightboost is on:
- you are supposed to use always 100% brightness (not the real case) OR
- PWM=100%*, brightness regulation is achieved by modifying the time width of the "ON" strobe**
- PWM is synched with lightboost strobes @ the same frequency as display refresh?
- ???

* that means backlight leds are always active and light dimming is achieved by increasing the strobing OFF time with respect to the ON time.
if it's the case, backlight always working at 100% will decrease monitor lifetime (or, better, LED backlight lifetime) with respect to same monitor settings with lightboost off.

** strobing always needs an OFF time (TN reset + polarization change for next frame), so either:
- you can't reach brightness=100%
- you need to boost the backlight (=lightboost?) to a value which is higher than 100% in order to compensate the brightness loss due to the OFF time -> again, lifetime decrease. bs :)

Essentially, yes, brightness is controlled by the pulse length.

LightBoost OFF -- adjust brightness using Brightness setting (it adjusts the pulse length of PWM, approximately 3 unsynchronized or partially synchronized pulses per refresh; error is about +/- 0.5Hz on the VG278H, based on a PWM test pattern I'm testing with. I also have a 1000fps camera, too.)

LightBoost ON -- adjust brightness using LightBoost setting (it adjusts the pulse length of the single synchronized strobe). Shorter strobes yields clearer motion, but is dimmer. (LightBoost=10% is the sharpest motion setting)

ok thanks, now it's pretty clear :)

Any idea how to spoof a regular 60hz lcd into doing this? I have a crt but am curious to compare.

when following the "Unofficial Hack for LightBoost" ive run into a problem at point #3; ASUS doesnt appear in the list manufacturers

List of Supported 120 Hz Computer Monitors

Asus monitors: VG248QE, VG278H, VG278HE (LightBoost instructions)
BENQ monitors: XL2411T, XL2420T, XL2420TX, XL2720T (LightBoost instructions)
ACER monitors: HN274H (LightBoost instructions)
Samsung monitors: 700D, 750D, 950D (Alternate HOWTO)
If you are buying today (March 2013), get Asus VG248QE or BENQ XL2411T, far less input lag than Samsung

i have a BENQ XL2420T =) mind clarifying a bit what you're trying to get at?

nevermind :D i thought you were referring to a asus monitor...

nah, the guide says to select asus as manucaturer then lightboost from there, but asus doesnt appear in my list :/ funny, cuz im currently sitting on an asus _:D

you installed the .inf and rebooted, right?

the .inf says:
[Strings]
MFG="Blur Busters"
DISC="Monitor EDID Override Installation Disk"
PRODUCTID="ASUS VG278 (LightBoost EDID Override)"
VENDOR="Asus"

so you 'should' be able to select asus as that's the only vendor it includes.

yeah, chances were i was being dumb :D got explonation below

I think if you can't see asus in the list, .inf file has not been installed.
I have win7+xl2411t and I got an error message when I was trying to install the .inf (right click - install).
I had to provide the file by updating monitor drivers (control panel -> display -> settings -> advanced -> monitor -> properties -> driver tab -> update driver -> use .inf file provided).
I could see the asus monitor only after I did that.
hope it helps.

nice, thanks.

np.
small question: if you touch your monitor, does it seem hotter when using lightboost?
that's not perversion, i want to understand if lightboost induces a noticeable increase in leds power consumption (-> lower MTBF expectancy than the standard 30khrs).

PS i tried to be serious and remove the pun, but wtf :)

idk man, my gpu started mixing my laptop screen with my benq, setting them both to ASUS. undid all changed the best i could =P

ok, nvm.
hf ;)

imo better way is to try monitor with lightboost for some days and then without lightboost at 144hz for some days.
After 2-2,5 months with lightboost i found some asian review of benq xl2411t. It shows this monitor has ~4x more input lag when benq's feature - "Instant Mode" is OFF. When monitor in 3D mode (3D mode required for lightboost atm) then most of menu options are blocked and i guess "Instant Mode" is OFF. Then i tried to play quakelive without lightboost at 144hz and it feels a little better than with lightboost. I wanna try again to play with lightboost in few days.

there are no any measurements of input lag when monitor in 3d mode(lightboost).

Now that is a non biased testimonial, ty man ;)

may it have something to do with this?

"Disadvantages:
[...]
Some users have reported more input lag with the Control+T method than the Unofficial Hack method below."

i use more easier part of this post "TIP: Improving Convenience, Stability & Eliminating “Control+T”:" and to be fully sure that vsync is OFF i aslo stop and disable service "NVIDIA Stereoscopic 3D Driver Service" after enabling lightboost.

so, did you notice the ~20ms input lag increase with lightboost?

I mean, I cannot find any description of the setup in that asian website so it could be due to a ton of things.

no :) now im trying lightboost again. it feels better in some high action moments. it's hard to complain. need to find day when i'm in best shape and try toggle to lightboost.

You're quoting the Samsung example, not the ASUS/BENQ example.

LightBoost doesn't add 20ms of input lag. It's far less than that on the ASUS and BENQ, if you properly follow the instructions (and eliminate the need for Control+T)

i was referring to the asian wesite posted by peckB, claiming a higher input lag with some (unknown) setup
http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto...mp;act=url

It depends on the gamer. Some gamers are good at compensating for motion blur, while other gamers are better at compensating for input lag. There are several gamers that are excellent at compensating for input lag, sometimes the lack of display-forced motion blur is more important. Faster human reaction time can outweigh the added electronic input lag. See this testimonial from a Samsung user (Samsungs have bad input lag compared to ASUS/BENQ):

I play Quakeworld online (usually at 600 fps to reduce tearing-no vsync) and actually found even with the added input lag, I was able to track other players much easier and pull of twitch shot kills that I normally wouldn’t because of the blur I normally get when spinning 180 degrees quickly.

Follow the tip to reduce input lag, disable your VSYNC, stick to ASUS/BENQ instead of Samsung, and you should have much less input lag than this person.

LightBoost isn't for everyone, but a lot of people like it for eliminating all motion blur bottlenecks caused by the display (all the way down to below human eye limitation; zero display motion blur; so any remaining motion blur limitation is caused by natural human limitation.)

So lightboost does cause additional input lag? Do we have any figures on how much?

It varies by monitor. I don't feel the input lag of LightBoost on my BENQ XL2411T. Some said they do (or only with the Control+T technique). Preliminary pcmonitors tests showed the VG248QE and XL2411T had similar input lag. I've heard some reviewers will be working on input lag measurements. As I mentioned, Samsung's were bad. Also, we have to keep in mind that reduced motion blur can also affect human reaction time; and this is different for different people. Some people will benefit from LightBoost, other people won't benefit from LightBoost.

On related subject, a good unbiased AnandTech article about the input lag chain:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/2803

This AnandTech article got great diagrams, which I like a lot.
AnandTech input lag graph for a very bad computer
AnandTech input lag graph for a very good computer

Two additional factors come into play, not yet covered by reviewers but hopefully soon. Any input lag (even if not felt) that may caused by enabling the feature, plus any reduction in human reaction time caused by the complete lack of motion blur enforced by the display. Either way, you can turn on/off LightBoost. Some people prefer it on (peforms better), others prefer it off (performs better).

The flaw in your logic is that there is no compensation required for 'motion blur' on any 120/144hz monitor. This only applies to input lag as you have to predict enemy movement to track efficiently.

No flaw in logic. We're both correct, when presented with a choice:
Some people perform better with motion blur + less input lag.
Other people perform better with clear motion + a very tiny bit of extra lag.

The point is we should have the CHOICE to turn on LightBoost or another similiar stroboscopic backlight; it's becoming a popular feature (by those who discover it) anyway and costs almost nothing to add to a fast LCD panel (At pleast the panels fast enough to pull off 3D). Monitor manufacturers still should make it easier to turn on.

With the stroboscopic backlight eliminating motion blur, it is easier to see enemies faster, react faster, if you can see enemies during fast motion without any motion blur enforced upon you from display limitations.

I'll quote a good post from OCN:

---
From Rattle:
"thanks guys, I don't notice much difference between 120hz with LB Vs 144hz No LB TBH, both feel great though."
---
From Vega:
"The difference is huge! I can instantly tell when LB is not on."
---

It's quite normal to have these conflicting reviews of LightBoost.
Common causes are the following:

HUMAN FACTORS
-- Your ability to track fast-moving objects; and your sensitivity to motion blur.
-- Whether or not you are used to CRT gaming. (LightBoost brings the CRT effect to LCD)
-- Some people growing up today, has never played on a CRT before. Such individuals may be less likely to notice quickly.
-- Some people only have a habit of eye-tracking only slower-moving objects.
-- Specific play styles. Strafing sideways & turning motions benefits more than walking forward.
-- Your sensitivity to input lag, flicker, etc. (You benefit more if you don't feel any effects from input lag or flicker)

COMPUTER FACTORS
-- Ability to run fps=Hz. You really need 120fps@120Hz to get maximum LightBoost benefit.
-- Judder/stutter control. Some games/configurations judder so much, that it negetates LightBoost.
-- Framerate limits. Some games cap to 60fps, this needs to be uncapped (e.g. fps_max)
-- Faster motion benefits more. Not as noticeable during slow motion.
-- Specific games. e.g. Team Fortress 2 benefits far more than World of Warcraft.
-- Some games judder more with VSYNC ON, while others judder more with VSYNC OFF. Test opposite setting.
-- High quality mouse (preferably 1000 Hz gaming mouse). Ordinary mice adds too much judder.

GAME PLAY STYLES THAT BENEFIT MORE:
-- Fast 180-degree flick turns in FPS shooting.
-- Shooting while turning, without stopping turning (easier on CRT or LightBoost)
-- Close-up strafing, especially circle strafing
-- Running while looking at the ground (e.g. hunting for tiny objects quickly).
-- Identifying multiple far-away enemies or small targets, while turning fast
-- Playing fast characters such as "Scout" in Team Fortress 2
-- High-speed low passes, such as low helicoptor flybys in Battlefield 3, you aim better.

For people who have gameplay styles in fast-action video games, such people can gain a massive competitive advantage during fast-motion activities, because you react faster. Without motion blur, enemies are easier to identify while you're still in fast motion. Even out of the corner of your eyes, even before you stop moving. Without motion blur, fast panning motion look as perfectly sharp as being stationary -- LightBoost measured 92% sharper motion than a 60 Hz LCD -- which yields a high-definition-in-motion experience when you play with an impulse driven display like CRT or LightBoost. As a result, there are several gamers (with certain game play styles) who gain a lot more frags when gaming with LightBoost.

Human reaction times are often measured in hundred(s) of milliseconds; even reducing human lag a tiny bit is useful. Even if you react a scant 20 milliseconds faster, that can still actually out-compensate an enemy that has less input lag than you. While it is noteworthy to mention some people say input lag is too high for them, for other people the input lag is not even felt or noticeable (It's important to note that there are many factors of input lag other than the display, too). For some people, the lack of motion blur (reduced human brain lag) far outweighs the minor (unnoticeable) input lag disadvantage of LightBoost; and have game scores that go up dramatically with LightBoost. However, it is understandable, not everyone benefits, for various factors -- listed above.

To do a controlled motion test, download PixPerAn and test with LightBoost enabled versus disabled. It's virtually guaranteed to see a difference in PixPerAn, far more easily than in most video games. Itwill help demonstrate the effect directly without the distraction of a gaming trial.

Sometimes certain video games don't show the LightBoost effect very well. For example, Crysis will usually NOT show the LightBoost effect, while Team Fortress 3 will. This is because you need a minimum framerate of more than 80 frames per second, to begin seeing the LightBoost effect (complete lack of visible motion blur). Also, temporarily turn on VSYNC during testing, since the differences amplify when frame deliverytimes is exactly in synch with the backlight strobes. Then if you prefer VSYNC OFF again, experiment with fps_max of several different values such as 125, 200, and 999 -- sometimes you get much better fluidity and far less tearing. (Because of clarity, it is often easier to see tearing on CRT than LCD. LightBoost will be similar. So, tweak, tweak!). LightBoost does sometimes amplify visibility of stutters and tearing effects, so you prefer framerates matching refresh rate.[/QUOTE]

Looks like I'll be replacing my ASUS VG236H with 1 (or 3) ASUS VG248QE. Good post.

Give us some feedback whenever you test this trick please.

considering you got pretty much everyone here (including me) to get the 2233rz a couple of years back you might want to propose an endorsement deal to asus ;)
edit: or was that fazz, I don't quite remember

http://geizhals.de/eu/?phist=891345
http://skinflint.co.uk/?phist=891345

Benefits of NVIDIA LightBoost - PixPerAn Readability Test
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzYZWbov8v4&hd=1
http://www.youtube.com/user/spachala/videos?query=lightboost
http://www.youtube.com/user/BlurBusters/videos?query=lightboost

using it on my xl2411t, its awesome.

just not sure if to use lightboost at 100% or lower.
10% is definitely too dim, maybe 60% would be appropiate.

wouldnt it theoretically be possible to increase gamma and even out color balance in the driver so you can reduce lightboost to 10%?

Shorter LightBoost strobes means shorter time of "ON" backlight (one strobe per refresh) and longer time of "OFF" backlight between refreshes. The 120Hz flickers fuses into a solid non-flicker for most people. Unfortunately that means darker image that you can't fix.

We need to wait for manufacturers to release LightBoost monitors with brighter LED's that can pulse brighter during LightBoost operation, so the image can still be as bright as a brand-new CRT. But at the same time, they need to find a way to do PWM-free operation during NON-LightBoost, because PWM artifacts at dimmed settings are simply plain ugly, and monitors are often too bright at 100% brightness. This will become very important if manufacturers develop brighter backlights for the purposes of brighter LightBoost=10%, or even shorter strobes than that (e.g. half-millisecond strobes, like shorter-persistence CRT phosphor). Since when we turn off LightBoost, we do not want our eyes to be sorched with either excessive brightness or PWM! The BENQ hurts my eyes without LightBoost, turning on LightBoost makes brightness easier on my eyes (I am not one of those headache-sensitive people)

"If you are buying today (March 2013), get Asus VG248QE or BENQ XL2411T, far less input lag than Samsung"
Your CoD pro competition gamer mainly reviews(ads) some nvidia videocard and uses bad monitor Samsung S23A950D as you mentioned above.

That's correct -- Spachala above, pro sponsored competition gamer. He is smart enough to recognize that the complete elimination of LCD-enforced motion blur occasionally outweighs the input lag, depending on game play style. His posted somewhere else that the ASUS/BENQ lot less input lag.

Some people perform better with motion blur + less input lag.
Other people perform better with clear motion + a very tiny bit of extra lag.
See this post for why.

BTW, Spachla is on the team that is the Australian champions on CoD.

I wish this was avalaible for AMD

see post below

It IS available to AMD, just requires some fiddling. Read through the last few pages of this thread, I believe its mentioned there. Somewhere.
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1734114&page=13

It's very hard, you need to trick LightBoost to become unlocked by using a GeForce card first (in same or separate system) or a GeForce laptop (two people succeeded; some laptop GeForces work if external monitor made the primary monitor), then hot-plug DVI cable to a Radeon. It keeps working until you physically unplug the power from the monitor. (sleep mode is okay on newer monitors like XL2411T or VG248QE). If you lose power to the monitor, then you have to start over.

Good post here: http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1039680623&postcount=884

nvidia being CUNTS again eh? surprises nobody

ARGH I didn't read this fully. I'm on ATI. So what nvidia cards support this? I'm thinking of getting GTX 660 - Is that compatible with all this 3d vision 2 etc crap?

any card of the current nvidia generation is compatible with 3d vision.
mind you that 120fps+ are needed to make proper use of the technique, and that you will only get in games like cod or cs.

if your budget does not leave room for a 680, then go with an asus 660 ti.

http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1039680623&postcount=884

That works but still needs an nVidia card first to unlock LightBoost in the monitor, before hot-plugging DVI to Radeon.

Is "shattering the LCD pixel persistence barrier" really that important?

Yes.

basically terrorism

And pressing the weapon trigger in video games is too???

Sorry about the sensationalism, but the science is true: The calmly worded version of the same sentence is:
"The strobe backlight flashes has the ability to bypass the pixel persistence limitation of an LCD".

I used some test equipment to determine that an optimized LightBoost=10% on ASUS VG278H has an effective (to human eye) 1.4ms response time with LightBoost, even though it's a 2ms TN panel. The pixel persistence just become unseen by the human eye. It had the same test result as the BENQ, with the sole exception that the ASUS has more crosstlk (afterimage effect) than the BENQ, important for 3D Vision and for LightBoost (even if you only use 2D).

I measured strobe lengths with an oscilloscope and a photodiode:
http://www.blurbusters.com/asus-vg278h-lightb...ond-120hz/
And more scientific information about how it affects motion blur in links to University papers (including some peer reviewed) and TV Manufacturers papers: Science & References.

I own both the BENQ XL2411T and ASUS VG278H.
I have done PixPerAn motion response tests on both, with the same result below:

baseline - 60 Hz mode (16.7ms frame samples)
50% less motion blur (2x clearer) - 120 Hz mode (8.33ms frame samples)
60% less motion blur (2.4x clearer) - 144 Hz mode (6.94ms frame samples)
85% less motion blur (7x clearer) - 120 Hz LightBoost, set to 100% (2.4ms frame strobe flashes)
92% less motion blur (12x clearer) - 120 Hz LightBoost, set to 10% (1.4ms frame strobe flashes)

As a result, pixel persistence is no longer a limiting factor in motion blur. The limiting factor is how short you can stroboscopically flash the backlight. You need lots of light for shorter flashes.
For LightBoost=100% (2.4ms strobes), high speed video at:
http://www.blurbusters.com/zero-motion-blur/

As you can see, the backlight is turned off while waiting for pixel transitions (unseen by human eyes), and the backlight is strobed only on fully-refreshed LCD frames (seen by human eyes). The strobes can be shorter than pixel transitions, breaking the pixel persistence barrier.

P.S. I play with LightBoost=50% on the monitor's OSD menus; it's a good compromise between brightness and clarity during fast 180 flick turns.

Been playing for a day and the difference is nuts. Textures don't blur to shit when I rocketjump, it feels a lot more responsive and flicks are a lot clearer to see. Can't believe something this good is so hidden. This should be the norm for 120hz gaming monitors (or an easy on option)

this lcd is a fucking crt boys, this is crazy

+1

Users should have a choice to turn LightBoost on/off. Manufacturers need to make this easier, and advertise this better.

quake dev's dislike it. end of discussion ;p

[2013-03-16-07:28:23] <sponge> lightboost sux
[2013-03-16-07:29:53] <Drayan> have you tried it at 120hz?
[2013-03-16-07:29:59] <sponge> yes i have the 3d kit
[2013-03-16-07:30:09] <sponge> so i can use it w/o ini hacks
[2013-03-16-07:30:22] <Drayan> what's wrong with it then
[2013-03-16-07:31:16] <sponge> makes it insanely bright that it hurts your eyes, and washes out the colors

who the fuck cares about colors

some people prefer nice colours and visuals over better input/responsiveness

unfortunately the majority of those people work in game design

I don't use 3D LightBoost either (I can understand quake dev's about this), but I like 2D LightBoost.

-- Are they doing 3D LightBoost (original feature) or 2D LightBoost (tweak)?
-- They haven't tried lowering the LightBoost setting via OSD.

LightBoost does NOT make the picture brighter for 2D use if properly enabled. Only for 3D (sync with shutter glasses). It's dimmer than Brightness=0% if you adjust your LightBoost OSD setting to LightBoost=10% (OSD menu setting). That makes LightBoost much, much dimmer. Maybe the Quake dev's didn't know about that setting... And especially when the monitor is properly recalibrated in LightBoost mode.

Some people hate 3D LIGHTBOOST but love 2D LIGHTBOOST

Besides, John Carmack of iD Software likes a homebrew version of this idea:
Tweet from John Carmack to me
The problem is that the commercially-made LightBoost has problems; it's advertised for 3D; and wasn't originally marketed as a method of eliminating 2D motion blur. It wasn't properly gamma-calibrated out of the box, for 2D usage (can be fixed). Blur Busters Blog started because of this inspiration from John Carmack! I even mention it in About BlurBusters.

Feel free to post this link to the interns on IRC: http://goo.gl/x20TZ
"Your boss said something..."

I've got a Benq XL2420T and followed the "Lightboost How-To" (option B) step-by-step till step no. 5. I didn't have to do adjust resolution. I don't find step no.7 and:

Somehow my nvidia control panel still detects my Benq, even if i changed the drivers.

I got WinXp. What should i do?

Did you update drivers? I thought I was on at least 310.90 and followed the instructions and ended up where you are, once I updated the drivers past 310.90 I had the option

Yes, I updated to 314.07. No options available.
Downgraded to 310.90. No options available.

Perhaps I just try to upgrade to Win7. I'm still on WinXP...

Windows XP does not support EDID overrides.
Most of my LightBoost users are Windows 7 -- I've never heard of success reports from Windows XP users that don't own emitters.

Perhaps this is why?
- Upgrade to Windows 7
- Or buy a 3D Vision emitter (even if you don't use it) if you need to keep XP.

Ok, thanks for the reply. Will try Win7.

I've now edited the HOWTO to mention XP is not supported for the Hack method.

Damn i got XP pro sp3.

It does work under XP if you use the emitter method.

There's a way to get the hack method working on XP if you activate on Vista/7/8 first with the full HOWTO, and then you use ToastyX's Custom Resolution Utility on Windows XP. Then you can get LightBoost working on XP without an emitter.

The other good news is ToastyX is going to get a LightBoost monitor; he will see if he can create a software utility to enable LightBoost in a software program; I'm helping him out with some information. This might make XP doable without needing the 3D Vision emitter.

I also have Win XP and I couldn't turn on Stereoscopic 3D section in Nvidia Control Player. Isn't that possible to just modify some registry value to enable it? And then proceed with instruction you posted?

update ur OS.

i dont know how ppl could use such an old OS, which got released in 2001.

Quake is running on my gaming pc, which is from 2006. I don't see what Win7 could do better than WinXp on that rig (besides Lightboost). And till now i cba formating and setting up Win7.

win7 does everything better.
but u seem to enjoy ur 12yo OS

I have two pcs, one old (WinXP) and on new (Win7).

Honestly, I dont give a fuck which WIndows is running.

Yeah smart ass

I got a 2233rz. This will not work for me, correct?

your monitor doesnt support nvidia lightboost.

I tried it but the brightness is too low and colors are really bad

Also I heard that TFTs arent made to run with this 24/7 so it can damage your monitor.

Where is the source of your claims?

It can not damage your monitor. It could reduce the lifetime of the monitor but that is 100% irrelevant because if your monitor happens to break (not likely..) during the guarantee, it will be replaced since lightboost is like using 3d mode all the time.
That is something the monitor should technically be capable of.
Anyway as a whole it would reduce the lifetime by an unnotable amount for us "casual" users aka gamers (yes even if you play 6 hours a day).

It doesn't reduce the lifetime of the monitor.
LightBoost is effectively only 120 Hz "nicer" PWM, instead of 360 Hz "ugly" PWM. The precise stroboscopic backlight flashes in sync with the refresh, between the refreshes.

In other words, brightness=dimming circuits (PWM) would theoretically burn out faster, from the logic of most people. But LED's do not have any power-cycle wear and tear. LED's are just semiconductor devices, like the tiny semiconductors on your CPU / GPU that turn on/off billions of times per second.

strobo backlight flash is just a slower version of the PWM, so I guess the stress for leds should be similar.
however, if lightboost-driven led powering has a higher crest factor than the pwm-driven one (i.e. ON time is noticeably shorter) a more "energetic" pulse will be required for obtaining the same luminosity -> lifetime will decrease.

I didn't understand your last phrase:
- PWM powering does burn out faster due to the noise it injects during commutations (I guess you compared it to non-switched powering topologies as passive dividers/transformers/...).
- LEDS do have a power cycle-induced "wear and tear", the proof is the heat coming out of your monitor. Did you mean a power-cycle wearout induced by single PWM commutations?

[Boring science information about LED & power supply wear and tear]

steffo, you forgot to provide infrared heat photography of an opened-up monitor, as proof of exactly where the heat comes from. As you already know, LED's aren't the only electronics inside a monitor. The typical failure in a monitor is the power supply (often a main heat source) in the monitor, and not on LED's. I got A+ in my electronics classes when I took them twenty years ago. Although I'm rusty now, many electronics major agree with most details of this:

LEDS produce less heat when dimmed, including during PWM. The reduced wear and tear prolongs the LED lifetime. There is no PWM wear and tear in LED's (at human lifetime timescales), as long as they're not being overdriven during pulses. There might be microscopically measurable wear and tear in switching LED's for many years; but several orders of magnitude damage occurs in LED's when LED's are brighter (e.g. which can occur when disabling PWM). Since this is the overriding factor, proper PWM prolongs LED life. For all practical purposes and intents, within human lifetime scales, for proper PWM power (no spikes, no overvoltages / overcurrents), PWM has absolutely no wear and tear on LED's. The wear and tear is vastly majorly in the power supply itself, not the LED's. LED marquee signs from year 1982 have been functioning pretty well with PWM modulation for years on end, for example -- still functioning very well today at darn near its original brightness! (30 years nonstop operation, since the LED's were, on average, underdriven thanks the PWM-nature of old marquee-sign refreshing electronics) Worn LED marquee signs are due to premature wear from over-driven LED marquee signs (LED's driven beyond its specs, beyond voltage/current specs, because people wanted a brighter electronic sign) have showed wear and tear after less than a year of operation, and the wear and tear was definitively traced to the over-driving of the LED's and/or overheating them (or both), rather than the on/off switching of LED's (confirmed not the primary wear and tear factor) Shining a LED continuously wears it out faster than reduced-power PWM on LED (PWM "chopped" version of the same original continuous power; rather than using increased-power surges during PWM which can increase wear and tear); the wear of LED's is more related to other factors such as heat and/or electricity going through it, rather than the sudden start/stop movement of electrons through it (typically insignificant factor when within LED specs).

For example, google "PWM prolongs LED life by reduced heat". Thousands of scientific information can be found through various searches; that I don't even need to do a fact check here.

...HOWEVER, power supplies CAN create more heat when doing a poor job of PWM. It's electronics circuit design and component selection at this stage. Power supplies can have switching wear and tear, however, good transformerless (and nearly-transformerless) switching power supplies have always been switching off at kilohertz frequencies for many years now. Well-designed switching power supplies should not have appreciable switching-related wear and tear within a gadget-scale lifetime, but it's known that cheaply designed power supplies (and chinese capacitors) can wear out. Well-designed computer power supplies are all "switching power supplies"; which use an internal PWM on electricity (the "switching" in "switching power supplies") as parts of its voltage conversion process. This does involve charging and discharging capacitors rapidly over many years; and cheap power supplies will definitely produce lots of heat and more wear-and-tear. Electrolytic capacitors, especially cheap ones, will dry out over time, especially during raised temperatures. Some other capacitor types have virtually no wear and tear (at human timescales) however. I'm talking about the power bricks often built into the monitor (and of course, same applies to your laptop power brick which is also a "switching power supply"). However, the same also holds true for the separate PWM electronics in a flat panel that converts DC power to PWM-modulated power for driving LED's. From people who repairs monitors, burnt-out LED's have almost never been found (cold solder joints and broken wires/ribbons being a more common problem for "LED-gone-out" issues), and more commonly, loss of backlight illumination has virtually always been traced to another cause, such as a defective power supply or defective PWM-driving electronics. LED displays driven at 100% brightness for years in showrooms do produce appreciable light degradation (that's LED wear and tear for you); but the same is not noticed of LED monitors driven PWM at far less than 100% (PWM prolonged the backlight LED's life) -- the power supply burns out first in cheap off-label chinese/korean monitors, for example!

That said, power supplies are doing PWM during 24/7 for brightness control; LightBoost is just a slower PWM rate. The electronics circuit design will be the determining factor. Some monitors with poor power supplies might produce more heat. The BENQ XL2411T produces less heat during LightBoost (especially since LightBoost is dimmer for 2D usage) than during Brightness=100% mode, since the amount of perceived brightness more directly co-related to the heat output of a monitor. The average wattage is much less. Average wattage determines the amount of heat output. Ideally, less light output means less wattage, usually means less wear and tear (for a proper power supply design that doesn't have some ramping-upwards stress effects at lower power levels -- it's possible to design circuits that have unexpected increased stresses at lower power levels; but this should not be done in proper design of PWM power supplies).

Also factor in LightBoost was originally designed for 3D Vision; (even though it also benefits 2D). So some 3D Vision related electronics might be generating heat (need to be determined via infrared camera and/or multimeter measurements, etc). Typically, this should in theory not be a significant factor, but some displays exist that seem to generate more heat during 3D mode (e.g. Panasonic VT50 plasma displays). 3D electronics and the heat generated, could theoretically be a wear and tear factor in a display. But 3D electronics is not the same thing as the LED's themselves, either way; and it seems that 3D electronics aren't generating extra heat in the BENQ XL2411T. (The ASUS VG278H is slightly different: It's got a built in emitter, that consumes a little extra power when 3D is enabled).

No reply is needed; but if we should; we should transfer to an Electronics Forum instead of esreality, to talk about the intricacies of PWM-related wear and tear.

[/Boring science information about LED & power supply wear and tear]

This is simply a 3D display running in 3D mode utilizing a stroboscopic backlight originally designed for 3D, but works great in eliminating motion blur for 2D. Also LED's are designed to turn on/off rapidly, that's what PWM does. We're just simply tricking the panel to run 3D mode while just running 2D. No difference to wear and tear.

Yes, I agree, colors are not good. But you can adjust them via nVidia Control Panel. There's also some settings that fix the colors, and you can also follow a LightBoost calibration info on 3D Vision Blog, so the colors look better in LightBoost mode. It is still darker for 2D usage than without LightBoost, but the monitor is often too bright for many people.

Also, you can turn LightBoost on/off; enable it only while playing videogames. There's a tip on turning off LightBoost in my LightBoost HOWTO.

Tried on my S27A950D; there is (at least for games like Quake) no possible advantage that can outweigh the (already mentioned) input lag that comes with frame sequential mode here haha. Fortunately normal settings are already super sexy anyway, was just curious. Interesting stuff regardless.

Yep, Samsung's are not very good for input lag in this mode. I got report that the Samsungs jump upwards to about 20-25 milliseconds of input lag when this is enabled.

"The bad news is that the input lag is worse than official LightBoost monitors, so this is not as useful for competition online gaming as official LightBoost monitors. However, the lack of motion blur is quite handy for solo gaming, and the Samsung is known to have better colors than most TN-panel monitors!"

If you are buying today for Quake, then the LightBoost ones are better at the lag during 3D, especially on the new ASUS VG248QE and BENQ XL2411T.

Think I agree. Only tried for a short while though. Should prolly play for a day to see if its possible to get used to. Because it really does look sexy when moving around fast :)

Did you ever try it more :) currently deciding all if these questions.

No boost, no-sync for me if I want to hit hard in an fps game.

I like g-sync for singleplayer or more casual multiplayer games though.

Thanks man.

What about for tracking in Overwatch?

I don't like it for any fps game that needs aim more than visibility.

H1Z1/dota/Any single player game = good
quake/cs/overwatch = bad

And now I'm talking about g-sync.

tl;dr: which are the best 2 lcd screens for quake (in order)?

I own a benq xl2411t, 100% happy atm.
asus vg248qe can be a good alternative (didn't test it).
samsung = higher input lag, acer = poor reliability.

why the 2411t instead of the (more expensive) 2420t?

newer model, better specs, new and better price.

http://pcmonitors.info/forum/topic/benq-xl241...difference

asus=bad displays (from what I've seen. most reviews of Asus monitors end up bashing the panel for bleeding backlight or something else, I just avoid Asus for monitors.

benq xl2420t has made me pretty happy :>

The ASUS VG248QE seems to be an exception amongst ASUS monitors. The higher-end ASUS products tend to be far higher quality than the lower-end ASUS products. Tests have shown that both the XL2411T and VG248QE has nearly identical attributes when LightBoost is enabled; and the exact same input lag.

The ASUS VG248QE has 4.5 out of 5 stars on Amazon - less than $300.

The BENQ XL2411T is harder to order in the USA, easier to order overseas from overclockers.co.uk, it is similar $300 price after exchange rate, but adds about $50 shipping.

moron

I dont think there are 2.
the xl2411t seems to be the best one with lightboost atm.

what about viewsonic ?

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/images/viewsonic_..._lag_1.jpg ?
V3D245 seems much better, but there's some debate regarding input lag.

There's no Viewsonic LightBoost monitors AFAIK. The vx2268 don't have LightBoost. See nVidia's List.

ye, but it has very low input lag and 120Hz. a good monitor, definitively.
http://3dvision-blog.com/597-viewsonic-vx2268...-good-crt/

yes but the Lightboost aka clear motion outweighs the little input lag advantage.

Yes -- see this post explains why clear motion sometimes outweigh a little input lag.
- Some people perform better with motion blur + less input lag.
- Other people perform better with clear motion + a very tiny bit of extra lag.

You do need to avoid the Samsungs (too much excess input lag) and use the ASUS/BENQ instead; and you do need to tweak to to minimize the LightBoost lag; by following the TIP: "TIP: Improving Convenience, Stability & Eliminating “Control+T" so your framerate is unlocked (and you're not forced to VSYNC On). The Control+T method adds too much input lag; but there's a workaround.

Are there no 16:10 monitors that use this technology?

why would you care? there is not muich difference.
you will not perform worse because you change your resolution from a 16:10 to a 16:9 one, even when you played with it for years. Its all in your mind.

I totally agree that it won't affect my performance. However I just prefer 16:10

Well, its just a minor difference in my opinion - when you are a gamer - so make a compromise. Or wait untill a 16:10 gets released which by current standings might be never

I am a computer programmer and I must admit I miss 16:10 for programming, so I understand.

For someone who has a viewsonic vx2268 would you say its worth upgrading?

Depends on the % usage for games, versus % usage for non-games. Fortunately, most of my programming is on my laptop or at an office, the display at home is usually for entertainment.

Also, playing a factor is your sensitivity to motion blur. If you've been letdown by 120 Hz LCD's because they still have more motion blur than CRT's, LightBoost solves that problem. But if 120 Hz already looks like CRT to you, then you might not see much of a difference with LightBoost.

If you also use it as a primary display for programming and graphics, you'll want to get a colorimeter to calibrate your display, as LightBoost looks a heckuva lot better after a complete proper calibration. Eventually I hope future LightBoost monitors comes with easy 2D calibration profiles, for non-shutter-glasses usage.

In some older games where you experience recoil when you get shot at, my screen goes blurry even at 120hz was just wondering how much of a difference there is with this new technology.

I have other monitors for movies etc, but none of them are of great quality, however neither do I think my current monitor is bad for any other use. I don't do any graphic design, I modulate the colours to my liking etc.

I'm just wondering if this lightboost is a significant improvement over what I currently have.

Your VX2268 has 50% less motion blur than a 60Hz LCD. That makes motion about 2x clearer to the human eye. This is quite a big improvement. However, if you still see motion blur, the LightBoost displays have 85% to 92% less motion blur than a 60Hz LCD. 90% is a full order of magnitude, which is 10x clearer motion to the human eye. LightBoost is in that territory:

PixPerAn Tests on BENQ XL2411T and ASUS VG278H

baseline - 60 Hz mode (16.7ms frames continuously-shining)
50% less motion blur (2x clearer) - 120 Hz mode (8.33ms frames continuously-shining)
60% less motion blur (2.4x clearer) - 144 Hz mode (6.94ms frames continuously-shining)
85% less motion blur (7x clearer) - 120 Hz LightBoost, set to 100% (2.4ms frame strobe flashes)
92% less motion blur (12x clearer) - 120 Hz LightBoost, set to 10% (1.4ms frame strobe flashes)

Also see TFTCentral's new article; they found that LightBoost vastly outperforms all past scanning backlights they have ever tested:
TFTCentral - Motion Blur Reduction Backlights

Also make sure your GPU blur effects are disabled, in case your video game is introducing artificial software-based motion blur during recoil effects. In that case, you might be satisfied without LightBoost. On the other hand, if it's caused by your display -- you don't see the blur during playing on CRT but see blur on your VX2268 -- you'll definitely see the imrpovement with LightBoost.

I have a iyama 451 and I felt like the motion was a lot better than my viewsonic. I only got a viewsonic as I knew it would last a lot longer and I wanted a bigger screen without having a 22inch monstrosity on my desk (although iyama crts are a lot more aesthetically pleasing than most others).

Considering I'm coming from a viewsonic and the image quality is not an issue for me, would you recommend picking up an Asus VG248QE or a BenQ XL2411T?

no, not unless you need 1080p

You think lightboost is overhyped then?

how can it be overhyped? it still practically transforms your lcd into a crt.

Well he says it's not worth upgrading so he clearly has a different opinion.

Again, different people have different motion blur sensitivities. Only you can make the decision. For some people, LightBoost is Holy Grail. For others, LightBoost is overrated.

NewEgg, TFTCentral, PCMonitors.info, are all talking about LightBoost. See media coverage.

I find the effect of lightboost to be good, but not everything else that comes with it (poor colors which can only be fixed via graphics drivers, eye strain due to flickering, horizontal lines, varied lightboost performance based on fps). The Viewsonic VX2268WM is still my favorite gaming monitor, followed by the LG W2363D. There's no monitor currently available that i would replace either one with, but since both are discontinued, for new 120/144Hz buyers the monitor to buy as a competitive gamer is the BenQ XL2411T as of 21/03/2013 thanks to it's super low input lag at 144Hz, even if the image quality in general leaves much to be desired i.e. that person might aswell buy an XL2411T and trial lightboost. However, if you're not a big competitive player and can deal with slightly higher input lag (still making sure to stay below <12ms), i'd consider something else that does a much better job at everything in general (unless you're really interested in seeing the effects of lightboost in action, as you do need to see it for yourself).

One thing to mention, mdrejhon is comparing the amount of ghosting present with lightboost on/off via a monitor highly renowned for having poor pixel response and colors in the first place, lightboost "fixes" the ghosting but at the cost of much more.

I think that investing in lightboost, is like investing into an alpha... only that this particular alpha is going to cost you upwards of 900gbp in GTX680 graphics cards to hold the required frame rate in any demanding games since Crysis2. That, and multiple GPU color profiles for you to swap between based on the game or application you're using... which are still worse than if it were disabled anyway.

You might find that you like lightboost, and like mdrejhon and others have said, the effect is amazing... but everything else just wasn't for me.

True, the VX2268WM was good.
But, we acknowledge different people have different motion blur sensitivities. Some of us are FAR, FAR more annoyed at motion blur than others. Others don't really mind all that much beyond a certain point. So it's really a personal decision.

pcmonitors.info, 3DVision Blog, and TFTCentral (media coverage of LightBoost) found ways to calibrate the LightBoost picture so that it's much better during LightBoost. nVidia calibrated it for 3D Vision usage, instead of proper 2D calibration (our real need here in this forum); and made it quite difficult to calibrate, but it's doable with some extra effort to make it almost as good as without LightBoost, much easier with colorimeter sensor but most people don't have one.

Also, case in point: Vega switched from his Catleap 2B IPS 120Hz overclocked, to a LightBoost TN, because he was far more sensitive to motion blur. He now has a 3-Titan setup with a triple-LightBoost surround setup:
Vega's Perfect Motion Clarity 2D Lightboost Titan Portrait Surround Gloss Build
He even de-matted them and converted them to glossy monitors.
(The VG248QE has the same input lag as XL2411T)

It is a person dependant factor. For some of us, lack of motion blur is far more important than best colors, even amongst users already using good-color monitors like these and the VX2268WM. I've seen people hear "120Hz", buy a monitor, get pleased with colors but disappointed with the motion blur still not as good as CRT (maybe not you, but some others), and willingly try LightBoost and become thrilled (example testimonial, many others). Others, the color or more pixels is more important...

Is there much of a difference between the ASUS VG248QE and the BENQ XL2411T?

The XL2411T doesn't come out in Australia until May where as the VG248QE is available now.

So far though, there doesn't seem like there is much of a difference in what I'm reading.

Found a comparison review

http://pcmonitors.info/others/benq-xl2411t-vs-asus-vg248qe

I'm currently on a 2233rz..

VG248QE is the best monitor ive tried, bought one today. Played on a mates and sold my S27A950D shortly thereafter to buy the Asus.

Generally I think Benq's are pretty bad, I've had black shadows behind fast moving objects on all I've tried at tournaments, would not recommend.

i guess you're talking about the xl2410t (which had ghosting issues)?
benq solved that on 2420t and 2411t models.

no they didn't

sauce.

I'm not really sure what you mean by that, but either way you're wrong.

my xl2410t suffers from heavy ghosting, problem has been fixed on 2411t.
i feel that LB 120Hz works better than the classic 120Hz. obviously that's subjective, as well as eyestrain.
if i have to state a flaw, I could say that xl2411t has bad fab colors, but I fixed them a bit by playing with monitor and nvidia settings.
anyway, you are wrong i have my opinion, you have yours.

it's not an opinion, they didn't resolve/remove the dark trailing... only if you enable lightboost will it be removed.

http://pcmonitors.info/others/benq-xl2411t-vs-asus-vg248qe

I give up, pcm even confirms through pixperan that the overdrive trailing is there and even recommends you buy the asus if you perceive it to be an issue lol, an issue that costs 100 to resolve as the asus is much more expensive. It's reduced but still very much there, do I have to take photos myself?

the overdrive trail, which bothered me in xl2410t, has been reduced a lot on xl2411t, up to the point that I don't notice it.
that's why i don't consider that as an issue and i'm happy with this monitor.

Ah i forgot about this thread...I actually ended up buying two of them :) (the VG248QE's).

Thanks for the reply though, and agree. It's a pretty rock'n monitor.

All I can say, try the lightboost "hack". It's AMAZING

After my semester ends (2-3 weeks) I'll be buying this monitor. I hope I can confirm your statement!

I take it back. The input lag was too much for raw-aim hitscan weapons imo. Feels so damn good just jumping around at first though.

Can you give me instructions on how to get 1440x1080 @ 120hz going? That tool you listed gives me a bunch of resolutions I barely use, its "main" resolution isn't the one I use (it says 60hz) and I can't add in one through the Nvidia control panel (when it switches resolutions it says its unsupported but it works fine). Isn't there some easy way to just add in a resolution to a .inf without messing with the rest of it?

figured it out, trial and error

Can anyone comment on the input lag with lightboost on the BenQ XL2420T? I definitely feel a difference but I can't tell if it's good or bad (sens feels higher with lb off)

in 3-4 weeks at http://3dvision-blog.com/ will be results of lightboost input lag of several monitors.

Excellent. It's probably approximately almost 1 frame of input lag (e.g.6-8ms). About 4ms of partial buffering, a rapid scan-out of the LCD at double speed (1/240sec), then 4ms of vertical blanking time (2-3ms of pixel persistence settle wait time, followed by backlight strobe). Someone in HardForum (username "StrobeMaster") reverse engineered a LightBoost LCD and discovered this partial-buffering behavior.

Obviously, Samsung has more input lag in their strobe mode (21ms) compared to LightBoost (guesstimated ~6-8ms), and if you don't disable stereoscopic mode while keeping LightBoost ON, the Control+T method can add an extra frame of latency so it's better to hack it so that you never have to do Control+T. (Follow the extra tip in my HOWTO).

The faster reaction times of the lack of motion blur can (reduced human lag) can outweigh the input lag.

It depends on the human -- people can have faster reaction times with LightBoost than without. There's many reports of people gaming much better with LightBoost. Others can compensate for the motion blur more easily, and game better without LightBoost.

the lightboost is very nice, but I just can't ignore my mouse feeling different. I really really like lightboost, but if the results show significant input lag I'll have to turn it off. Sucks cause you can picmip 0 with lightboost and it's awesome.

You could also follow this specific tip from near the bottom of the LightBoost HOWTO...
It reduces input lag significantly.

TIP: Improving Convenience, Stability & Eliminating “Control+T”:
Once you’ve verified LightBoost works (Step 12), and the registry tweak was already installed (Step 4), you can make LightBoost “stick” by going to nVidia Control Panel and disabling “Enable Stereoscopic 3D” (clear the checkbox in Step 8). If the screen did not flicker when doing this, LightBoost is still enabled even after disabling 3D!
– Games launch in 2D without needing Control+T
– Driver stability is improved in this mode, less freezing occurs.
- VSYNC OFF now works much more reliably, reducing input lag, fps higher than Hz.
(Note: Some games may automatically switch resolutions; make sure it stays at 120 Hz)

Some people play better with motion blur + low input lag
Some people play better with perfect CRT + tiny extra input lag
Everyone is different. However, the above tip greatly reduces the input lag differential between LB and non-LB operation. So make sure you disable Control+T. Once I do this, I can't feel the difference between LB and non-LB operation.

nice!

I tried the LB hack using the CRU method and found it nice if not Earth-shattering (on a Benq XL2420T); however, what bugs me is that there doesn't seem to be an easy/convenient way to turn it off if you enabled it using the CRU method. Switching to 60Hz and then back to 120Hz on Nvidia control panel doesn't work, as upon switching back to 120Hz the LB hack re-enables itself automatically.

I would like to keep using LB, but only for gaming; how should I go about disabling it at other times?

As an update, unplugging the monitor didn't help either, LB mode still persists.

Create a Custom Resolution with a smaller Vertical Total. e.g. 1920x1080 with a Vertical Total of 1105 or 1125 -- only slightly above 1080 -- instead of 1147 or 1149. This will immediately disable LightBoost. Both nVidia Control Panel and ToastyX Custom Resolution Utility can allow you to create this mode.

Alternatively, you can create a non-LightBoost mode for a specific refresh rate (e.g. 119Hz or 114Hz), and keep the LightBoost mode for 120Hz.

I guess it's worth waiting until the next-gen LCD's/LED's come with a lightboost function straight out of the box? I'm kinda reluctant to part with my trusty 2233rz.

Whats the cheapest gfx that can do lightboost?

I'm currently on a modified 8800gt, and all i want is smth silent that can provide lightboost if needed.

Thanks in advance.

I'm not sure: http://www.nvidia.com/object/3d-vision-geforce-cards.html

I guess, it would be a GTX 550 Ti or a GTX 460 (if that is still available...)

Is there a way to get lightboost with no emitter and on XP? (without installing new OS)

What method creates the least input lag? Getting the new BenQ that everyones jizzing over about, if thats important.

Use the new ToastyX Custom Resolution Utility method -- It's now linked in the Hack section of the LightBoost HOWTO.

Man I wish my LG W2363D had support for Lightboost. Sounds awesome. Cant afford a new monitor atm though :(

I was used to playing 800x600@160hz on my flattron CRT back in the days, oh what a nice feeling that was.

It works on the LG. Try step 2 :)

Thanks ALOT for the info! I currently cannot test this because I do not own a workstation computer atm, using my laptops HDMI output "overclocked" to 110Hz. Anyone else with this LG monitor who can test it?

Hm, how sure are you that this will work? According to this it does not support lightboost: http://www.nvidia.in/object/3d-vision-requirements-in.html

Try method 2. It works.

u r wrong

Actually, I am now wondering:
We discovered undocumented strobe backlights in some monitors.
This is how we discovered Samsung 700D/750D/950D has a strobe backlight (non-LightBoost), which I developed a Samsung Zero Motion Blur HOWTO for.

Let's try collecting more testimonials from LG W2363D, to doubly verify if this is a true effect, and not a placebo effect. A good test is a PixPerAn Readability Score of 25 to 30 which is impossible on a regular LCD.

i had this monitor and tried. monitor goes 3d mode, colors changed but there were no any readability improvements in pixperan.

I need iiyama 19" 454 crt monitor (working with no faults).
If anyone wants to sell it. PM me.
UK seller would be nice.
Thanks in advance.

http://forums3.armagetronad.net/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=23173

Enable Lightboost on Linux.
Requirements: Windows installation to active lightboost

Or on a 2nd computer - then swap DVI plugs. (Without unplugging monitor power)

still no decent amd radeon suppport. fml.

Unofficially, google "LightBoost on Radeon". nVidia doesn't appreciate this, but it's interesting to notice some people have figured it out...

yes but it's super complicated... hooking up the monitor to a pc with an nvidia card first etc...

just tested this and damn.. I love it. Average 8-10% accuracy gain in QL just by turning the lightboost on. It's just like the laggers stopped lagging lol. It's crazy.
btw is there any way to fix the horizontal lines (visible in the corners mostly) ?

The horizontal lines in the corners is an artifact caused by the LCD limitations being pushed to its maximum capabilities. It's unavoidable. If you hate it, just turn off LightBoost.

I now use the brand new, easier "ToastyX LightBoost" method. I actually have added 144Hz non-LightBoost via ToastyX Custom Resolution Utility (use "reduced", not "automatic"), so that I can do this.

120Hz -- turns on LightBoost
144Hz -- turns off LightBoost

Convenient way to turn on/off LightBoost. :-)

I have now created a new graph, at 60Hz vs 120Hz vs LightBoost -- Motion blur comparison.

UPDATE:

*** Better LightBoost Color on XL2720T ***

CallSignVega and several other people have messaged to tell me that the new Geforce driver version 320.18(nVidia website) has [b]greatly improved LightBoost color quality on some monitors. It is not as good color as 144Hz, but much closer than before.

EDIT:
-- Improves color quality on BENQ XL2720T
-- Does not improve color on ASUS VG248QE
-- 320.18 drivers are buggy with Battlefield 3. Wait for better drivers.

The BenQ XL2411T flickers once when switching the LightBoost setting between 10% and "OFF", but LightBoost is still working when set to "OFF".
I wonder if there is any difference between these settings except for backlight brightness.

LightBoost is still working when "OFF", but it's got more motion blur than LightBoost 10%.
Motion blur is roughly equivalent to LightBoost=100% but without the brightness of LightBoost=100%

TFTCentral measured the strobe flash lengths of LightBoost settings.
The OFF setting used backlight strobes than the 10% setting.

I highly recommend using LightBoost=10% instead of LightBoost=OFF.
The benefit of 10%-versus-OFF is actually noticeable during high-speed strafing in front of high-detail-texture walls in video games. It is also noticeable in PixPerAn.

Has anyone switched from 2233rz to another 120hz lcd with lightboost? Is it REALLY worth it?

I ordered an asus vg248qe some weeks ago, coming from a 2233rz. Unfortunately the asus was delayed and delayed and right now i'm still waiting, they told me 2 more weeks. When i finally have it i'll compare the 2 monitors :p

No.

source: I have both displayed plugged in side by side right now, one running 144, other on 120

If you own a 2233RZ you're doing just fine, the "improvement" is marginal.

120Hz LightBoost has far less motion blur than 144Hz non-LightBoost.
Some said the difference between 120Hz->LightBoost was bigger than 60Hz->120Hz. But not everyone feels the same way.

Some people say the improvement is marginal, while others say the improvement is very major. See several LightBoost testimonials including Battlefield 3 graphs containing LightBoost improvements. Also, here is an example testimonial:

originally written by Skyviper
At this point I felt like I may have wasted $300 bucks on a [120Hz] monitor that is full of compromises. The next thing I tried of course was using the Lightboost hack.

[... enables LightBoost ...]

SWEET MOTHER OF GOD!

Am I seeing this correctly? The last time I gamed on a CRT monitor was back in 2006 before I got my first LCD and this ASUS monitor is EXACTLY like how I remembered gaming on a CRT monitor. I was absolutely shocked and amazed at how clear everything was when moving around. After seeing Lightboost in action, I would have gladly paid twice the amount for something that can reproduce the feeling I got when playing on a CRT. Now I really can't see myself going back to my 30" 2560x1600 IPS monitor when gaming. Everything looks so much clearer on the ASUS with Lightboost turned on.

Again, depends on whether if you are sensitive to motion blur.

I agree with this. The BenQ XL2411T was definitely worth the purchase for me.
Image quality is really good too, but the backlight is so fucking bright!

To reduce brightness in LightBoost mode, reduce LightBoost percentage setting down to 10% instead of 100%:

1. Open the BENQ menu
2. Find the screen with "Contrast" and "Brightness"
3. You may need to scroll down to below the bottom
4. Adjust "LightBoost"
5. Set it to a lower % value. (but not OFF)

The advantage of lower values, is even less motion blur, because the strobe flashes are shorter.

I know, but the screen is still too bright for me at 0% brightness/lightboost and 0% contrast. I will get used to it, but watching a movie or playing an immersive game on this monitor with dimmed room lights is not a great experience.

BTW, it is best to avoid LightBoost=0%, because it has more motion blur than the LightBoost=10% setting.

TFTCentral measured the strobe flash length of 0% as being the same as 100%. The 10% is the shortest strobe flash.

I put a small light behind my monitor, and it's quite pleasant on my eyes now. (A low wattage but bright warm-white LED lightbulb, so it doesn't scorch anything since it never get warm)

I just switched from a 2233rz to an Asus VG248QE.

improvements:
monitor stand,
size,
resolution or aspect ratio,
responsiveness/144Hz.

Regression:
colors,
OSD menu,
can't adjust sharpness on Asus without ruining colors.

Details:
The monitor stand on the Samsung is crap. It wobbles like crazy with the slightest tap, and my monitor did fall over and break because of it. Luckily, Samsung repaired it for me. In comparison, the stand on the Asus is amazing. It feels solid and doesn't wobble. It swivels in all sorts of directions, can go up and down, and can rotate. The stand is easily the #1 improvement.

The Asus is 24" while the Samsung is 22" at best. It's also 1080p while the Samsung is 1680x1050. While that's not a big deal in theory, web pages and other programs seem to be made with 16:9 in mind, so you get better split screens with the Asus since it has that aspect ratio.

Personally, I felt more confident in my aim with the ASUS @ 144Hz. 1-2% increased average, maybe. It feels more responsive or like there's less input lag than the Samsung. You can some of my stats here: http://www.quakelive.com/#!profile/statistics/fuuck_im_gay

I think the colors are worse on the ASUS. Furthermore, the viewing angles are worse since it's a bigger monitor. It seems like no matter where you position yourself, the tint is gonna look off at some corner. This wasn't so with my Samsung.

I thought the Samsung had a really nice OSD menu and buttons. The one on the Asus is learnable, but annoying.

The sharpness on the Asus is locked at 60 IF you use the standard 'splendid' mode which is recommended for the best colors. (The green color on www.vocaroo.com looks awful on all modes except for standard and sRGB, but neither of them let you adjust sharpness.) This may not be a big deal for you, but I had my Samsung below 35 sharpness, so 60 is awful and slightly painful for me to look at, but maybe I'll adjust.

Lightboost:
I tried it out for a few hours (only against bots since I'm IP banned). You can definitely notice the reduced motion blur, but I don't think it makes a difference in Quake. Not for flick rails, not for LG, and not for anything else. It feels like it adds enough input lag to hurt my aim a little bit. Right now I prefer 144 Hz.


tl;dr
Lightboost isn't worth it. The ASUS VG248QE is barely worth it. Look for a monitor with comparable input lag that lets you adjust sharpness first, possibly one of the BenQs.

Please ask if you have any questions.

Another Q: my BenQ XL2411T displays some horizontal lines during motion with LightBoost enabled, both in movies and in game. It looks just like interlacing, but not as prominent.
Is this normal with all LightBoost monitors?

Also, when using 120Hz LightBoost on the desktop my Windows 7 x64 freezes a lot and sometimes displays artifacts and eventually locks up completely. Got the latest nvidia drivers cleanly installed and LightBoost via CRU.exe.
When I use 144Hz on the desktop, there are no problems at all.

(1) No. I own two LightBoost monitors, and my VG278H doesn't have this effect. That said, the XL2411T seems to be prone to this problem -- I have heard from a lot of XL2411T users who has mentioned this artifact.

(2) When you use CRU, did you disable the "Stereoscopic 3D" checkbox in nVidia Control Panel? This is very important for improved stability within Windows. You want 3D to be disabled, while LightBoost remains enabled in the monitor. (That's what CRU makes possible).

Yes, it's disabled.

this lines is too tiny and thin http://dhainne.free.fr/weirdscanlines.jpg
sometimes i notice them, sometimes i dont )

I noticed today that a custom lightboost utility was released, which allows easy enable/disable of lightboost via keyboard shortcuts, and most importantly, support for ATI cards.

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Stro...and-NVIDIA

Yes, BlurBusters Blog has posted the Easy ToastyX Strobelight Utility page.

Here's a screenshot of Strobelight.

P.S. Me (Blur Busters) worked with ToastyX to test this utility on both ASUS and BENQ monitors. Blur Busters only tested on nVidia GPU's, so if you haven't bought a GPU, please consider leaning towards nVidia because they are the one who invented LightBoost (a great invention for computer monitors).

And another screenshot of Strobelight.

Control+Alt+Plus -- Turn ON LightBoost
Control+Alt+Minus -- Turn OFF LightBoost
Control+Alt+Numbers -- Adjust Lightboost % setting.

Control+Alt+0 -- Brightest LightBoost (a tiny bit more blur)
Control+Alt+1 -- Clearest LightBoost motion (dimmer, less blur)
Control+Alt+5 -- Compromise setting

I'm about to buy either the XL2420T or XL2411T (leaning towards the XL2411T).

I have some questions about the XL2411T.

1) Do you have to install any software or drivers to access 120hz or is it switchable on the monitor itself? I will be running it at 120hz permanently.

2) To enable the LightBoost fix, do I have to install any software, or can I do that through the monitor/nvidia driver? This is a standalone computer used entirely for gaming, so I don't care if I am able to switch between lightboost on/off - it will be on all the time. I use another computer for non gaming stuff.

I run a nvidia 560ti graphics card.

Thanks for any information.

1) No, it's already part of the drivers. 120Hz is done via the drivers.
2) LightBoost can now more easily be enabled using Strobelight, see above. Just run Strobelight then quit Strobelight. Still easier to use Strobelight-setup / strobelight to enable LightBoost.

Also:
- XL2411T has cleaner LightBoost effect (less artifacts)
- XL2420T has better color (if colors more important)

560ti is a bit old but should be fine at keeping up in older games like Quake Live or Team Fortress 2. You want 120fps@120Hz for maximum LightBoost benefit.

oh, so I can't use Lightboost with just the Nvidia drivers? I HAVE TO install extra software?

Correct. But it's only the Strobelight application so nothing scary/bloated/messy

You can also turn off that strobelight application that's running in the background, by using msconfig or services.msc in command prompt and disable them. I basically have no traces of running lightboost software, and it's still working when i restart my computer.

Oh, interesting, that's cool. Thanks for the extra tip :)

Thanks for the response, good to know. Was just after clarification. I think I'm going to get the XL2420T as I won't use more than 120hz.

I just tried it on an ATI 7950 / Asus VG278HE and it worked with the new Strobelight utility. It eliminated the motion blur, however it also gave me some input lag and I was losing some fights I normally would win. I don't know if it's like that with an Nvidia card but I prefer Lightboost off and 144Hz for now.

Some people gameplay styles benefit a lot from LightBoost (compensating for the minor input lag), and get better scores with LightBoost.

... But you were probably playing independently of motion blur (e.g. flicking and aiming at the blur). Some pro players play that way. Either way, the Strobelight utility allows you to turn on/off. Some people like LightBoost for solo gameplay too.

So this is 10000000000% Safe and can do no harm at all?

So This Means 1MS GtG, and having 1.4MS overall with 10%? or do i have to put it off in my screen to get 10%?

And like player csgo, vsync off 250fps on 10% will give me mutch faster immage response times, is this correct?

I'll stick to my 2233 till proper OLEDs

OLED is delicious. Amazing color. Amazing blacks. But it's also forbidden fruit. For now.

You will be in for a very long wait. IPS and VA strobed LCD's will probably arrive long before OLED. Also OLED has a problem of being prone to burn-in, far more sensitive to burn-in than plasma! Not to mention, see Why Do Some OLED's Have Motion Blur? as a note.

I'm rooting for OLED's to come sooner than later, but...

So, realistically speaking, when should I update my 2233 rz? and what should I get.
I want 120hz and proper black.. dark games are unplayable.

I've made a list of a few Sequels to LightBoost Monitors in another thread.

This includes EIZO Turbo240 and BENQ Blur Reduction, which are second-generation strobe backlights of different brand names, that comes after LightBoost.

http://gaming.eizo.com/products/foris_fg2421/

How will Lightboost work with/compared to a 240hz monitor?

This model doesn't need nvidia lightboost. It's already has strobed backlight.
"Blur Busters is being sent a review unit from Eizo, and it will be arriving this month. And, yes, we will benchmark it against LightBoost."
http://www.blurbusters.com/eizo-announces-foris-fg2421/

I am quoted. Me so famous. :O

"CRT quality on 120Hz LCD" ?

Not gonna happen.

It has already happened already for the motion clarity department.
See the happy users at www.blurbusters.com/lightboost/testimonials/

There are pros/cons of course, such as poor color quality, but the motion clarity is actually better than some CRTs. There are also new "Bettter Than LightBoost" technologies such as BENQ Blur Reduction, if properly adjusted by the new Blur Busters Strobe Utility.
www.blurbusters.com/strobe-utility/

Much, much better color quality than LightBoost. It just requires V2 firmwares on BENQ XL2411Z, XL2420Z, and XL2720Z.

Here is a screenshot:

Just learned from BENQ that they've accepted Blur Busters Strobe Utility as an authorized 3rd party utility:

http://info.benq.us/blog/benq-america-corp-an...-utilities

They even give you information on how to send your monitor in to BENQ to get your Z-series upgraded to V2 firmware, if you don't want to do the DIY upgrade yourself.

Man when will you test this new BenQ series? And the Eizo 240Hz!

Still far from a pro-Trinitron. For a 10-15x price.

well that looks like a fishtank and weighs more than a fishtank. also it might blow up in your face in a couple years.

I thought the table holds it, not you.

fact that transporting it is way harder still stands

Skulp I know you squat 700 bro.

Transporting where?

Been trying this but can't get it to work.

I have a Benq 2411Z but can't seem to find the right monitor drivers for Win 8.1 so the program can't find my monitor. Says Generic monitor under device manager, tried display pilot but that doesn't change it.

this program - http://www.blurbusters.com/benq/strobe-utility/

Try installing a program like "driver buster" and see if it finds anything in its repository.

At least here on win10 I needed to install the .inf file for it from the CD (E:\Drivers\XL2411Z or something). You'll have to do it manually. That utility goes by a regex to find the Monitor, on win10 in the hardware manager however the xl2411z is listed as 'zowie something' which the utility doesn't recognize. Maybe it works for 8.1 too?